Dunira
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Dunira has one of the best outlooks of any crag in central Scotland. The sport climbing is superb, south facing and a suntrap making climbing possible all year round. The view down the Strathearn valley is to die for and makes the relatively long walk (for a sport crag) totally worthwhile. The crag has a good variety of low to mid grade routes giving varied climbing. This is Rockdust only better in vista! Solitude is guaranteed and the big boulders below the crag may provide some good problems with a scrub.
Dunira is the very obvious wedge shaped crag above the tree line, visible from the long overtaking straight as you leave Comrie heading west. The climbing is similar to Tullimet with steep rock and big holds when needed in the lower grades and good quality, crimpy wall climbing on the harder routes. Thankfully on the harder routes, thank god jugs arrive just when everything starts going wrong. The rock is Schist and has been well cleaned, but some edges, mostly for feet can break unexpectedly so care should be exercised until the crag gets more traffic and settles down. All the routes are very well bolted with resin lower offs.
Top Tips: Bring a tartan rug, binoculars, Cheese and Wine. Walking boots and a change of base layer recommended for the warm-up approach.
Access
It is essential for good relations to be kept with the landowner to follow the directions to the crag closely please.
Directions & Approach
Directions
Approaching from Perth along the A85 or South along the B827 to the A85, head through Comrie, as you pass the village exit signs hit your mileometer and continue for exactly 2.4 miles. Do NOT take the entrance that say's 'Private Road' Access to Whitehouse Only, Continue for a short distance more, round a nasty hairpin and take the next single-track tarmac road on the right that says 'Dunira - Private'. Follow this for 0.3 miles to a crossroads, turn right and continue along the tarmac road running into a dirt track (often pot holes) for another 0.5 miles. Shortly after passing the entrance to 'Greystones' on the left, the road enters a clearing of Rhodedendrons and obvious parking place before a sign that says 'No Vehicle Access'- please respect this. From the West, pass through St Fillans and just after Kindrochet a bad dirt track sign posted 'Dunira - Private' leaves the A85 on the left. Obvious gate House on left of turn off. Bump down this pot holed disaster or better and preferable, continue 0.3 Miles further along the A85 to the access as above.
Approach
Time: 30 minutes. (Sheet 52 Grid Ref 742 247)
Leave the car park heading east along the same road. Just after entering the farm yard (Please keep dogs on lead until well on the hill - Landowner's request) the road forks left along a 'public right of way' and heads up hill. Come back left along the track as it doglegs back on itself above the same field, now heading North West and following a small stream. A short distance further on the main stream heads up the hill on the right. At this point (Sheet 52 Grid Ref 742 242) a metal plaque with 'Dunira' conveniently sits in front of a deer fence. Cross a ladder beside the gate on the right on an old track and go across the stream. Follow a faint track on the left immediately after crossing the stream. Important (death by Bracken in mid summer!) Stick to the right of the stream as you go up hill, dodging the odd tree. After about 10 mins you'll pass an obvious garage sized boulder situated on the other side of the stream, just after this the stream forks, take the right fork for 20m uphill to avoid the worst of the bog and then cross back left to the left fork. Follow the stream bed, usually quite dry or the right bank through bracken to the end of the tree line and a solitary tree beside the stream. From here the crag is clearly visible up on the left. Cross diagonally through boulders to be well rewarded for your travels and effort.
Amentities
Tullybannocher tea room just outside Comrie is the nearest pit stop going east, offering a good selection of eats. Whilst in the other direction the Clachan Inn at Lochearnhead is probably the best watering hole for climbers heading back west. Comrie itself offers all necessary ammenties and the Comrie Cancer Club Shop often has some nice second hand climbing items, inc hard to find books 'Extreme Rock!' par example.
Routes
The routes are described from left to right. All of the climbs are protected by in-situ gear and resin lower off's. The crag dries very quickly due to its exposed nature.
1. The Whitehouse F6a+ * 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
From the flake at the left end of the crag make a tricky move to gain its top, then traverse out left along a handrail, stand up on the high ledge to gain the left to right break and then don't stop till the top. (Good although escapable!)
2. Whitewash F6b 18m
Scott Muir (2005)
A short savage eliminate, start up Whitehouse then climb directly on small sharp holds to gain the break as above.
3. Twenty Shilling Woodworm F6a * 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
Start up Whitehouse, passing the rotten stump at the base of the steep diagonal break. Swing like a king up the break to the top before the rot sets in. Worth every penny!
4. George's Bush F6a ** 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
Climb the excellent flake 'crack' to join and finish up Twenty Shilling.
5. Glen Bolt'achan Big Gun's F6c *** 18m
Scott Muir (2005)
A great finger lick'in direct son of a route that shoots is barrel right at the very end. Climb the wall direct on magic edges.
6. The Fort Dundurn Gurner F6c+ ** 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
The next line of bolts right should make most folk grimace. A sharp little number heading for the undercut flake at mid-height, then finishing through the small overlap and crack above. Wobble right to finish.
7. Dunira or Die F7a ** 18m
Scott Muir (2005)
Either you do this or you don't. No prisoners taken. The excellent steep and crimpy lower wall leads to a fortunate rest below the roof. From here, pull up and left, before (possibly) returning right to a rocking finish. The route of all evil.
8. Dun Moan'in F6b 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
The superb overhanging crack leads to a slab. Climb the next short wall on flakes and layaways to a final slap. Stroll up to the roof and pull through to an exciting finish. (The very last moves can get a bit dirty!)
9. Tullybannocher tea room F5 *** 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
A truly delightful trip up the right to left line of weakness passing through the roofs at the top with ease and in time for Tullybannocher's finest tea and cakes.
10. Strathearn Shangrila F4+ ** 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
On the edge of all things great! Climb the arete direct to a tantalising finish and view to savour.
Originally from a guide by Scott Muir
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