Glen Ogle: Sunnyside Crags
From SCWiki
The North East flanks of Glen Ogle are scattered with several small crags containing sport climbs in the lower to mid grade range.
See the main Glen Ogle page for an overview and Glen Ogle: The Dark Side for more climbing
Contents |
The Warm-up
Routes are described from left to right
Ultraviolet 10m 6b+*
N.Shepherd. 1994
Outshined 10m 6a+
G.Ridge. 1994
Burnt Offerings 10m 6b+**
G.Ridge. 1994
Face the Heat 10m 7a**
N.Shepherd. 1994
Infrarete 10m 6b+*
N.Shepherd. 1994
The arete.
Under the Same Sun 10m 6b+
N.Shepherd. 1994
Burn Baby, Burn 10m 6a+
G.Ridge. 1994
Burn it up 10m 6a+
G.Ridge. 1994
The Asteriod
There are 4 routes at about 5+ 6a according to Highland Outcrops - it also notes that they aren't well equipped.
Anyone know more?
The Gap
Routes are described from left to right
Beggars Banquet 10m 6b+*
G.Ridge. 1994
The left most line.
Chimera 10m 6b+**
J.Horracks. 1994
The Gallery
Routes are described from left to right
Mona Sleeza ? 6a+*
C.Anderson. 1994
Modern Tart ?m 6b+*
1994
Art Attack ?m 7a+*
1994
Roadside Wall
Don't Fight the Feeling 10m 6b*
G.Ridge. 1994
Project
The hanging slab
Hold the Press 10m 7a*
G. Ridge. 1995
Up to and through the small roof
Creag Nan Cuilleann
Park in a small layby (Downhill 3). From the layby walk 25m down the road to a bridge. Leave the road here, and bushwak up the hill on the left of the burn. Cross a fence and continue up the hill through bracken, staying on the left of the burn. Look out for the first tree after you go under the pylon wires - about 10m further up is a crossing, and from here a narrow but distinct path leads through the heather. Follow this as it contours round the hill side, and leads to a grassy terrace by a boulder - The crag a short walk up through easier terrain, from here.
Route are described from Left to Right.
The Main Wall
Idiot Wind 10m 7b**
R Anderson. 1998
The sport climb on the left of the main wall
Merlyns Flight 30m E3 6a
K Howatt. 1992
really 30m? seems improbable that its 3 times as long as the next door route
The Bigger They Fall 25m E5 6c**
R Campbell & R Anderson. 1992
The Harder They Come 30m E4 5c*
T Prentice & K Howett. 1991
Pruner's Grove 30m E2 5c*
G Little, T Prentice & K Howett. 1991
Mind Bogle 30m E5 6a*
K Howett. 1991
Poison Ivy 30m E3 5c**
T Prentice & K Howett. 1991
Fight or Flight 7a+
Slaphead 7a
Fat Chance 10m 6c*
G Ridge. 1998
Fight the Flab 10m 6c+*
R Anderson. 1998
Let it all Hang Out 10m 6c+
R Anderson. 1998
Happy Campus 10m 6c+
R Anderson. 1996
Hang On! 10m 6c**
J Horrocks. 1998
Step on It 10m 6a
G Ridge. 1998
Life in the Fat Lanve 12m 6b+*
R & C Anderson. 1998
The Arete Area
Between the main and right walls is a small arete containing 3 sport climbs
Chasing the Bandwagon 10m 6a+*
C Milne. 1998
The left hand route, taking the wall.
Reaching the Limit 10m 6c
R Anderson. 1998
Sticks close the the topside of the arete. Shares a lower of with Chasing the Bandwagon.
Clutching at Staws 10m 7a
R Anderson. 1998
The underside of the arete.
The Right Wall
Dazed and Confused 15m 6a
J Horrocks. 1998
Having a Little Flutter 15m 6c+**
G Ridge. 1998
Ceuse Jimmy 15m 6c
G Ridge. 1998
Kinmont Times* 15m 6a+
G Ridge. 1998
The left leaning diagonal crack. Finishes at the Dazed and Confused belay.
Lichen Virgin 15m 6a+
J Horrocks. 1998
Loose Living 15m 6a*
G Ridge. 1998
Start in the groove, and follow this as it narrows then turns into a slab. A tricky start makes for an awkward fist clip, but from here the climbing eases with the gradient. Shares a final clip and a belay with Ghost Trail.
Ghost Trail 15m 6b+
R and C Anderson. 1998
The right-most climb. Start from a little sloped ramp. Gain the Ledge then climb the wall above on delusive pockets. Shares a final clip and belay with Loose Living.
Bournville
Vodoo Ray 8m 6b
1994
The Greenhouse Defect 8, 6b**
1994
Sorry Tess 8m 6b
1994
Hot Chocolate 8m 6b**
1994
Sudden Alchemy 8m 6b*
1994
Fingers of Fudge 8m 6b+
1994
Chocoholics 8m 6a+
1994
Half Covered 8m 6b*
1994
Overlord Buttress
Routes are describe from left to right.
Restless Souls 10m 7a**
C.Anderson. 1995
The steep line on the left.
Project
Overlord 12m 7b*
R.Anderson. 1994
Another steep one
Overkill 10m 7a+**
R.Anderson. 1994
Over the Top 10m 6b+*
R.Anderson. 1994
Pullover 10m 6b+
R.Anderson. 1996
Mirror Wall
The Mirror Wall contains a small number of mid range sport routes which climb excellent pocketed rock. The crag is located further North East of Creag nan Cuilleann at the top of a stream. Look for a hexagonal-shaped section of crag.
The left side of the wall is divided by a crack which snakes up and right VS 4c. The sport routes climb to the right.
Blind Faith 12m F7b/+ **
D. Redpath - 1997/8
Start just right of the crack and climb directly on small two finger pockets to reach a shallow scoop. The climbing above is easier.
??? F7a
J. Horrocks - 1998
Cony the Calvanist F6c+ ***
D. Redpath - 1998
Above the small ledge climb through the wide boss and the wall above.
Take a Hike F6c?
G. Ridge - ????
??? F6c
D. Redpath - ????
Fat Eagles Fly Low 12m F7a *
G. Ridge - ????
High Noon
This is a small crag located at the head of Glen Ogle. The rock takes on a honeycomb apperence at its top
All Change 10m E4 6b**
'Dave Redpath. 27-03-1998
On the left side of high noon to the right of the bolted routes there's a nice looking wall with a diag crack at 1/3 height. The route climbs this wall directly to the ramp, at which point it heads left and up.The crux is well protected, things could get nasty higher up, take some friends. A good though provoking addition, don't nobody bolt it now!
Electric Sunday 10m F6c
Dave Redpath. 27-03-1998
The right most bolted route on the wall, start just left of the gully, no bridging now. Head up to the pod then left into the honeycomb pocketed top wall. L.O. before top.
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