Glen Ogle: The Dark Side
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See the main Glen Ogle page for an overview and more information. See Glen Ogle: Sunnyside Crags for more climbing
Project Crag
There are 3-4 bolted but unclimbed lines here rummored to be F7c-F8a. Sadly the rock quality isn't great and there aren't many holds.
Bond Buttress
Project
The manky groove to the right of the capped roof might give a resonable route.
Solitare 25m F8a+ ***
D. Macleod - 2004
Climb a diagonal flake crack then lauch directly up the arete with very sustained fingery climbing to eventually gain a good break at 15m. Easier climbing leads to the groove of Scaramanga and the top. Easier sequence found bringing grade down to 8a+.
Scaramanga 25m F7a+ ***
N. Shepherd - 1993
Follow obvious groove to a resting place under the roof. Make a few hard moves left to finish up the steep groove.
Bold Finger 25m F7a ***
D. Redpath - 2004
A superb and varied climb which is among the best sport routes in the glen. Follow Scaramanga up the laybacking groove to the ledge below the roof. Break out right through steep bulges on good holds to gain the pocketed headwall. Sustained and excellent wall climbing leads to a break bleow the top from which onemore long reach gains the finishing hold.
Rainmaker Buttress
The white buttress above the viaduct has two bolted routes. Approach via the steep vegtated ramp to the right. The top of the crag needs a good dry spell of weather to dry out.
The End Justifies the Means 25m F7b+ **
D.Redpath - 1998
The lefthand bolted route. Step down from the small perched boulder and gain the small scope with difficulty. Make easier moves above on pockets and slopers to gain a resting place under the overlap. Move through the overlap with difficulty to reach better holds and a LO. Good climbing in an excellent situation.
Power Shower 15m F7b+ *
D. Macleod - 2004
The righthand bolted line. Make stretchy moves on good holds up to an overlap. Use small finger crack to move through the overlap to gain better holds above.
There is a partially bolted route on the right side of the wall.
The Diamond
The main crag on the dark side, just above and right of the Viaduct.
Midge Patrol 12m F6b *
There are two short projects between Midge Patrol and Digital Quartz.
Easy Over 12m F7a *
R. Anderson - ???
Digital Quartz 15m F8b *
Iain Pitcairn - 1993
Make hard moves above the quartz lump to gain the ledge probably involving some dynamic climbing. Cool beezy weather useful to hang the slopers in summer. From the ledge head up and right up line of bolts between COTR and Ceasefire, itself F7b+.
??? 15m F7c+
Starting up the next route and finishing up the top section of Digital Quartz.
Ceasefire 15m F8a+ **
D. Macleod - 2001
Move up to the break on COTR to gain a good jug. Move back right on small sloping holds to gain a poor edge. Use small slopey pockets to gain better holds before the lip.
Spiral Tribe 15m F8a ***
D. McCallum - 1992
Children of the Revolution 18m F7b **
R. Anderson - 1992?
Follow the break from right to left which crosses the Diamond before moving up more directly before the cave.
Off The beaten Track 15m F8a ***
P. Thornburn - 1992
Chain Lightning 15m F7b+ **
R. Anderson - ????
Move powerfully through the small roof to reach better flat holds. Race onwards to reach a resting place on the ramp above.
One in the Eye of the Stick Men 15m F7a *
N.Shepherd - 1993
The next section of the crag is broken by a ledge.
Old Wives Tail 15m F6b
N. Shepherd - 1993
Follow the rising ramp leftward avoiding the steepness
Metal Guru 15m F6c **
R. Anderson - ????
Follow the crack above the ledge.
Project
Climbs the wall between the two cracks.
Sugar and Spice 15m E3 6a
R. Campbell? - 1992
Climbs the offwidth crack.
Gross Indecency 15m F7c
Bouldery climbing to the ledge then a technical wall above.
Trossach Trundler 8m F7c
A short bouldery route up to the ledge.
After the Flood 12m 6c *
Arc of a Diver 12m 6c **
Climb and Punishment 10m 7b+
Wristy Business 10m 6c+ *
Raspberry Beret 10m 6b+
Ship Ahoy 8m 6b
Buzzard Wall
See Access Notes.
Cut Loose 8m 7a+
1993
Hang Free 8m 7a+
1994
The Rave
The Edge of Ecstasy 8m 6c*
1994
The left side of the arete
Rush 8m 7a**
1994
The right side of the arete
Raving Lunatics 8m 7b*
1995
Recreational Chemistry 8m 6c+
1995
Shares a lower off with raving luatics
The Galleon
Weigh Anchor 8m 6b+
1994
Frigging the Rigging 8m 6c*
1994
Slave to the Rhythm 8m 7a+**
1993
Rum Ration 8m 7a+*
1993
Blithe Spirit 8m 7a***
1993
Get a Grip 8m 7b*
1993
Eat Y'self Fitter 8m 6c
1993
Infinite Gravity 8m 7a+
1994
Fight Fire with Fire 8m 7c**
1993
Waiting for a Train 8m 6c*
1993
The Pack Horse 8m 6c***
1993
'Horrid 8m 6c
1993
Don't Pass Me By 10m 6a+
1994
The Guilt Trip 10m 6c**
1993
The Underworld
micro-routes. Did someone mention bouldering?
Carsonogenic 6m 6a
1994
Project
Hanging out the Smalls 6m 7a**
1994
Under where? 6m 6b
1994
XX 6m 6c
1994
Satan's Slave 6m 6a
1994
Maniaxe 6m 6b
1993
Under Mind 6m 6b+
1994
The Cascade
Hive of Industry 6m 7a+**
1993
Gotta Sin to be Saved 8m 7b*
1993
Paradise Road 9m 6c**
1993
Careful with the 3rd clip!
Short Sharp Shocked 10m 6a+***
1993
The Age Old Problem Rears it's Ugly Head 10m 7a
1994
Havering Skate 10m 6b+*
1994
Project
Speedfreak 10m 7b*
1993
Cauldron of Spite 10m 6c*
1994
Stone Junky 10m 6c
1993
Dirt Digger 10m 6b+
1993
That Sinking Feeling 10m 7a
1994
Debt of Pain 10m 7b*
1994
The Drowning Pool 10m 7b*
1993
Down Under
The Bends 8m 7a+**
1993
Project
Nitrogen 8m 6b+
1994
Far Beyond
Submersion 6m 7a+
1995
Project
Project
Project
Project
Far Beyond Driven 6m 6b+**
1994
Driven to Distraction 6m 6b+**
1994
HyperHyper 6m 6b
1994
Concave Wall
The concave wall lies above the north end of the viaduct crags. It lies above some smaller broken crags.
Embrace My Weakness 8m F7c+
D. Redpath - 1999
From a small ledge move up to a large side pull. Small pockets and edges might allow the LO to be gained.
Snipe Shadow 10m F8b **
D. Macleod - 2004
Climb the overhanging wall directly on small pockets.
Tosser Velocity 12m F7b+/c ***
M. Lauder - 1999
Climb the steep and exposed arete with increasing difficulty.
Northern Exposure 15m F7b *
D. Redpath - 1999
Starting up the arete and bail out right from the jug where the arete steepens.
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