Hardest Scottish Sport Routes

From SCWiki

Contents 1 9a 2 8c+ 3 8c 4 8b+ 5 8b 6 8a+ 7 8a

Scottish sport climbing routes of F8a and above. Routes are sorted by difficulty based on the consensus after repeat ascents (also listed). There is also a list of open sport climb projects some of which may join this list in the immediate future. See also the list of the UK's hardest sport routes.

9a

None yet.

8c+

• Ring of Steall
  Steall Hut
  Dave MacLeod (2007) - (Unrepeated)
  

• Metalcore
  The Anvil
  Dave MacLeod (2007) - (Smith)
  

8c

• Body Swerve
  The Anvil
  Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Smith)
  Slight hold breakage on crux, making route a tad harder now. (Malc ya fat bas***d!)

• Devastation Generation
  Dumbuck
  Dave MacLeod (2004) - (Smith)
  Malcolm thought baby 8c or maybe even F8b+.

8b+

• The Smiddy
  The Anvil
  Malcolm Smith (2007) - (Unrepeated)
  

• Body Blow
  The Anvil
  Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Smith, Cassidy)
  Hold breakage since making start harder F8b+/c.

• Happiness in Slavery
  Dumbuck
  Dave MacLeod (2004) - (Cassidy)
  Steep 7-9 move boulder problem weighing in at V10/Font 7c+. A reach helps a lot on the final move.

8b

• Steall Appeal
  Glen Nevis
  Malcolm Smith (1993) - (Unrepeated)
  Reachy and hold has deteriorated since FA F8b+?

• Snipe Shadow
  Glen Ogle
  Dave MacLeod (2004) - (Unrepeated)
  

• Fire Power
  The Anvil
  Dave Redpath (2007) (Smith, MacLeod) Consensus is growing for F8b+. Is it really as hard as something like Magnetic Fields or Zeke the Freak - both short F8bs down south. Is it as harder than Snipe Shadow or even Slavery?
  

• Merchant of Menace
  Balmashanner
  Stuart Cameron (1992) - (MacLeod, Vincent, Cassidy)
  

• Stolen
  Glen Nevis
  Dave MacLeod (2007) - (Tweedley, McNair, Cassidy)
  Burley and sustained even after the no hands rest - Scotland's best grade 8?

• Black Out
  The Anvil
  Malcolm Smith (2007) - (Unrepeated)
  Hard crimping up top.

• Tolerance
  Dumbarton Rock
  Dave MacLeod (2003) - (Numerous)
  

• Digital Quartz
  Glen Ogle
  Iain Pitcairn (1993?) - (MacLeod, McNair)
  

• Voodoo Magic
  Dumbuck
  Andy Gallagher (Reclimbed by Dave MacLeod at F8b - 2000) - (Numerous)
  Holds changing recently F8a+ ???
  

• Hurlyburly
  Newtyle Quarry
  Dave MacLeod (2003) - (Bollanger, Smith, Cassidy, McNair)
  

Bloody desperate for 8b seems to be the consensus, dry tooling and pocket erosion doesn't help.

8a+

• Blood Fire
  The Anvil
  Alan Cassidy (2007) - (Smith, MacLeod, Sutton)
  Bouldery then steady to final crux..

• Apollo
  Tighnabruaich Viewpoint
  Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Unrepeated)
  Crazy steepness across Kraken roof prolonged by technical sequence.

• Solitaire
  Glen Ogle
  Dave MacLeod (2004) - (McNair, Cassidy)
  Easier sequence than original pulling right out of arete.

• Negative Creep
  Dumbarton Rock
  Dave MacLeod (2004) - (None)
  Easier sequence found at F8a+. Who by?

• Hand of Andromeda
  Tighnabruaich Viewpoint
  Dave MacLeod (2003) - (Cassidy, Sutton, Smith)
  Ace 3D roof that's brutal then fingery.

• So Be It
  Dumbuck
  Dave MacLeod (2000)
  Has lost a hold and is harder now - not reclimbed yet.
  

• The Niche
  Balmashanner
  Stuart Cameron (1991) - (Numerous)
  Brutal crux that's near impossible for shorties.

• Leopold
  Glen Nevis
  Murray Hamilton (1993) - (Numerous)
  Partially retrobolted crack with some fixed gear.

• Cease Fire
  Glen Ogle
  Dave MacLeod (2001) - (McNair)
  Desperate sloping crimpy sequence - best tried on a cool windy day.

• Spitfire
  The Anvil
  Dave Redpath (2004) - (Numerous)
  Excellent crimpy overhanging wall with a dynamic finish.

8a

• Spiral Tribe
  Glen Ogle
  Duncan McCallum (1993) - (Numerous)
  

• Elysium
  Tighnabruaich Viewpoint
  Michael Tweedley 2006 - (MacLeod)
  Two ascents so far, F8a+ ???

• Off The Beaten Track
  Glen Ogle
  Paul Thorburn (1993) - (Numerous)
  

• Axiom
  Tunnel Wall
  Dave MacLeod (2004) - (Numerous)
  

• Suffix
  Dumbarton Rock
  Ross Henighen (2006) - (Cassidy, Litster)
  The only way to get an 8a tick climbing this wall. Sufference is 7c+.

• Ubuntu
  The Camel
  Dave Redpath (2007) - (Dubuost,Litster)
  Settling at hard(-ish) F8a?

• Tales of Creation
  Balmashanner
  Neil Shepherd (1995) - (Numerous)
  An F8b climbers F7c+.

• Ossian
  Arbroath Sea Cliffs
  Tom Ballard (05??) - (Unrepeated)
  Mermaid's Kirk, left wall.

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