Moy Rock
From SCWiki
Moy Rock is a conglomerate south facing crag, north of Inverness. Currently there are a number of trad routes for those with a death wish and 11 sport routes that have been fully equiped and climbed. In the area that has been developed, the nature of the rock and the lack of any protection lends itself well to an ideal sport climbing venue. There is also potential for bouldering on the crag and some boulders below with the traverses recorded in the SMC Guides which also have the trad routes.
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Directions & Approach
From the Maryburgh roundabout take the Ullapool road (A835) and drive about 3 miles westward looking out for a forest entrance with a footpath signpost on the righthand side of the road. Car parking is limited to 2 or 3 cars beside gate.
Go round gate up track, turn left and take obvious scruffy well used path leading up through trees to the crag. First 6 routes are to the left of the access point with the rest to the right.
Access
Access Restrictions - May be in force from the beginning of February to the end of July if bird nesting on crag. Check MC of S website for information;
Routes
Left (big flat wall area)
The first six routes left to right on the big wall area are;
Match if you are Weak (20m) 6c
Starts up above access knotted rope.
The Dark Side (20m) 6c
Little Teaser (20m) 6b+
Gets steeper as you get closer to the belay!
Pulling on Pebbles (20m) 7a+
The Ticks Ate All the Midges (25m) 7a
Cloak and Dagger (25m) 6c+
The Nesting Zone
Further down and right, about 10m
The Seer (12m) 7b
Right - Oak Tree Area
Right again from the nesting zone
Where the path comes up to the crag next to a tree is an area of easier routes. These go from left to right are very well bolted and have double bolt chained lower offs. Some have locking krabs on the lower off - please leave these in place.
Easy Slab (20m) 4+
Nice route up a slab
Pebble Party (15m) 5
Steep start going to a good ledge/rest then finished by a crack on the right of a steep wall
The Fly (15m) 6a
Vertical route up a wall sustained after first 4 meters
The Clansman (30m) 7a+
Hopefully more routes will be bolted in the near future and more information will be available soon.
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