Muchalls Shore: South Bay
From SCWiki
The south-most area of development presently at Muchalls Shore, South Bay is a lovely secluded little spot. Problems have been recorded on the back wall of the bay (Totty Wall), the rocks bordering the bay on the seaward side of the neck (Shelf Wall), and on the large boulder in the middle of the bay (Grond).
Exercise caution when accessing this area, as high tide or large waves can cut it off from the rest of the beach. It is possible to traverse easily above high tide level to escape, bit this will be more awkward with a pack and or mat.
Totty Wall (NON-TIDAL)
The back wall of South Bay provides continuous rock for some 30 metres. Quality generally deteriorates with height. Because of the abundance of holds, the problems here are mostly eliminates, and many other variations can be worked out. Landings are excellent, which is fortunate, as the occasional hold has been known to part company unexpectedly.
1. Totty Traverse V1 5a
Start at easy ground near the north edge of the bay and traverse the back wall at low level, using all available holds, until it is possible to finish by stepping off onto a detached lump of rock where things ease off, a couple of metres beyond the Hoodie Groove.
2. Wings of a Dove V1 5b
Just left of the start of the Totty Traverse is a smooth rectangular wall starting at about 2 metres height, and finishing at a small cave. From a sitting start at a good flake, pull up to a small hold directly above (avoiding the big flake in the crack up to the left), and crank up for a good hold in the break (beside an obvious orange rock scar). Crimp up the smooth wall to the cave, making no use of the holds on either side. Watch out for pigeons nesting in the cave.
3. Diagonal Crack V0 4c
From the same starting hold as the previous problem, follow the left-rising crack and continue in the same line to pull over the roof and finish at a large jug. Jump off.
4. Roof Route V2 5c
Start sitting below the big roof at a couple of positive crimps. Pull on and slap left to a better hold, and then make a big reach up the slab to the large sloper immediately below the roof. Finish by spanning over the roof to the finishing jug of Diagonal Crack. Feet only allowed on the wall underneath the problem i.e. no use of wall to left.
5. Not the Usual Story V3 6a
The rib forming the right edge of Hoodie Groove is generally easy angled, but with a steeper base giving a hard sitting start (and with potential for more to be worked out). Pull on at a crimp, snatch for a better sloper and make a big move up and right for a pocket in the wall above the big break. Using another hold at the same level, finish easily to big holds. Easier for the short (for a change).
6. Hoodie Groove V0+ 5a
The hooded groove left of centre, from a sitting start. Harder but better to only use the holds in the back of the groove till you can reach the jug at the top.
Shelf Wall (TIDAL)
On the other side of the neck from the Totty Wall, the south-facing rocks of the isolated headland provide some varied and unusual problems. Nothing particularly difficult has been recorded, but there is scope on the steep overhang above the prominent half-height shelf.
1. Bucking Bronco V1 5b *
This short problem tackles the bottomless nose to the left of the deep chimney at the landward end of the wall. From a hanging start at the jug on the lip, mantel/heelhook/backflip your way to the top.
2. Tonight Matthew, I'm Going To Be... V0 4c
The right wall of the deep chimney is slabby until it turns a corner, where it presents a taller wall to the left of the shelf. Climb this from a sitting start.
3. Mouth Cave V1 5b *
A steep little number with a scary landing, climbing the flake at the left end of the overhang above the shelf from a squatting start at the obvious block at head height. A meaty sitting start, either off very low crimps or a solitary high, sloping triangular slot, has been attempted but not climbed. A siphon us useful to remove the rockpool on the shelf under this problem before an attempt is made.
4. Kit Kat V0 4b
Beyond the widest part of the roof/hanging arête, pull over the roof onto the vertical wall and climb it on big holds in the horizontal breaks. Easy enough, but more of a solo than a boulder problem.
5. Corner Copia V0 4c
A pleasant amble up the corner right of the roof.
6. Jasper's Oddity V0+ 5a
Another strange hybrid that can't decide if it's a mini-route or a boulder problem. Beyond Corner Copia is a triangular wall above a narrowing continuation to the shelf. Climb it from a sitting start on the shelf, and don't fall off.
Grond (TIDAL)
More imagination required again, but the biggish boulder lying directly out to sea from the Totty Wall looks a bit like the flaming battering ram used in Lord of the Rings.
1. Perverse Traverse V3 6a *
Starting on the seaward side of the boulder, traverse slopers on the lip leftwards until a hard span across a corner/groove gains the big horizontal break on the overhanging prow. Continue across this to finish easily on the landward side at Thank You, Mr Limpet, or continue to reverse Weathertop.
2. South Side Story V3 6a *
A hard, classy problem up the shallow right-slanting groove in the overhanging prow at the south end of the boulder. A crouching start, or stacked mats, may be necessary for the short.
2a. South Side Story Variation V5 6b *
A harder variation uses the peapod sidepull out left to gain the pocket at the top of the groove.
2b. Flying South V3 6a
Eliminate starting with one hand on start of SSS and other on FP. Pull up to good hold on FP and gaston right on SSSV holds to move left hand to good hold. Finish direct (probably easier to climb than explain!).
The bottomless corner/groove to the right of South Side Story is an obvious unclimbed line, but looks very hard.
3. Flying Pig V2 5c
Climb the edge between the south and landward faces from a sitting start.
4. Thank You, Mr Limpet V1 5b
From a sitting start at a small groove left again, make a hard pull onto the wall and proceed to the top.
5. Weathertop V0 4c
Tiptoe delicately from left to right along the overhanging lip/wave on the landward side of the boulder.
