Muchalls Shore: The Middle of Nowhere
From SCWiki
Moving on again, the second subsidiary bay has a lot less to offer. Most of the problems are concentrated on a solitary large stubby boulder set well back above the high tide mark. The traverse of its south face is particularly worthwhile. Remaining problems are best seen as mild distractions and are scatted across the bouldery foreshore and a small wall set at an angle against the back wall of the bay.
The Slow Patrol Boulder (NON-TIDAL)
This is the isolated stubby pinnacle about 30 metres to the south of the Fourth Toe. NOTE: The pebble level has dropped quite a bit since the photos were taken.
1. Ginger Duke V1 5b
On the landward end of the pinnacle is an obvious low ledge. Traverse into this from the left, bum-scrape round the nose and rock up to finish.
2. Petite Prince V0 4b
A delicate little traverse along the seaward face of the little wall in front of the pinnacle, rocking up rightwards to finish. A fun problem on good slopers, and more pleasant the shorter you are.
3. Grande Prince V1 5b
Link Petite Prince into Ginger Duke.
4. Slow Patrol Traverse V1 5b *
The south face of the pinnacle provides a lovely technical sloper traverse which for once is harder for the tall. Start at the obvious jug and move rightwards via a cross through or an awkward match, finishing by pulling round onto the seaward face. Watch those Bristol heels!
5. Slow Gin V0 4c
From the two obvious sloping holds near the right end of the traverse, pull up to better holds and top out. Harder for the short (V1).
5a. Slow Worm V1 5b
Since the drop in pebble level, a new problem has been squeezed in. Start on good holds and either throw for nose, or use nice pinch to reach it. Continue straight up. In early 2008 the pebble level had lifted again, and the holds have disappeared.
5b. The Mental Muchalls Mantel V3 6a
From a hanging start, mantel the projecting nose at the seaward end of the Slow Patrol traverse using no other holds. Butch.
The Flying Prow (NON-TIDAL)
Set against the back wall of the bay, the rocks just south have a prominent flying prow at the landward end.
1. The Flying Prow V0+ 5a/b
From a sitting start at a good hold, swing up left onto the prow to finish when you can touch the top of the wall. Jump/climb down to avoid the loose-looking upper rocks.
2. Right Wall V0 4c
Starting just to the right on a low rounded hold, pull on and climb the face right of the prow till you reach the detachable holds. Jump off.
The Small Change Boulder
Between here and the next rocks to the south are some larger boulders just above the high tide mark. A couple of trivial but pleasant problems have been worked out on a boulder with a protruding block half way up its north face.
1. Small Change VB
The protruding block provides all you need to undercut onto the wall and reach to the top.
2. It's a Small World VB *
Pull on at the south end of the boulder at a layaway hold, and lip traverse the seaward side round past the previous problem to finish up the right edge of the north face. A hands-off rest midway is essential for the full tick.
