Muchalls Shore: The Neck
From SCWiki
(PARTLY TIDAL)
A neck of rock now protrudes into the bay, forming a tidal passageway between the neck and a detached mass of rock and leading to South Bay. The rocks around the neck are not as sound as the other areas climbed on, but do offer some diversion. The main features are a tall wall of rather brittle rock forming the landward side of the actual neck, a free-standing squat pinnacle (a similar feature to the toes further up the beach) and some other walls and arêtes either side of this.
The best climbing is to be found on the south side of the squat pinnacle, in a small pebbly inlet. Unfortunately, the lowest rocks appear to remain greasy under most conditions, although a drop in pebble level has improved the situation.
1. Tony Hart Traverse V3/4 6a *
The nose of the squat pinnacle forms a series of slopers as it runs round into the pebbly inlet. From a good initial jug, traverse left on slopers and sidepulls, staying below the obvious lower break, to finish with a big reach for the good upper break/ledge to the left of a horn formed where a crack meets the break. Sketchy (Tony Hart – geddit?). It is easier and no so good (though less eliminate) to finish direct from the final sloper to the break. Another easier variation pulls on at the starting jug to reach a line of sharp holds above the slopers and traverses along these.
2. Morph V1 5b
A reachy one move wonder, rising from a sit start on the left hand sloper to slap directly for the juggy break/ledge.
3. Rising Damp VB
The obvious rising rightwards break succumbs easily. Finish by scrambling up and round to the right, or jumping off.
4. Damp Eliminate V4 6b
From the starting holds of Rising Damp, move up left to a small square notch, reach back right for a sidepull and finish up and left. An eliminate, as it is much easier to pull directly from the starting holds to the sidepull.
5. Purple Plums V2 5c
From the same starting holds at the bottom of the ramp pull up and left by long reaches on small but positive holds to a good jug. Pull up to block and traverse left, or drop off. Satisfying. Starting foothold are unfortunately damp and green.
6. Tony Hart's Damp Eliminate V5 6b
Take the Tony Hart Traverse to the break, descend Rising Damp to it's starting holds, and finish up Damp Eliminate. Probably the hardest problem in the bay at the time of writing.
Attempts have been made to climb the tall wall forming the landward side of the neck but so far, these have been thwarted by unreliable rock and grassy top-outs. It is possible that with a little cleaning and gardening, worthwhile highball problems may yield.
