Am Fasgadh
From ScottishClimbs
"Amfascar" is a sport climbing venue in the Gruinard area of North West Scotland. It's aspect and angle ensures it's always dry except for minimal seepage and is a great sun trap, making climbing here an option year round.
Directions & Approach
Grid Ref: NG 966 910
Park in drive way/dirt track near some cottages and the Gruinard River. Follow the track along the river for 5mins, take a path branching left before a cottage. From here the top of the crag is visible beneath a slanting band of quartz which stretches across the hillside. Follow the path over a fallen fence, through a bog, up a hill and between some boulders to the base of the crag.
Routes
1. Toiseach 7a+/7b
The leftmost line.
2. The Brown Streak 7b+
The brown streak! First bolt should be stick clipped.
3. Brown Streak Variation 7b
Climb Warm Up to third bolt, move left and finish up The Brown Streak.
4. Warm Up 7b
Move steeply through bulge on good holds then up wall on small positive crimps to a tenuous clip of the chain. Extended finish optional.
5. Project
The pillar
6. Lawrence's Route aka Black Sox 7c+
Just left of the wall. Make a long move from side pull crack for a crimp by the 1st bolt crux (easier for the tall). Make further sustained moves moving right to a shield which leads back left.
7. Project -
Starting off left side of wall.
8. Bog Talla 7c
Starting off right side of wall. A tough technical middle section leads to a good rest position below the finale. Has an extended finish option
9. Prima 7c
Right of Bog Talla. Follows the right slanting ramp and continuation above the quartz band. 7b+ to the first lower off.
10. Project
Counter diagonal to Prima.
11. Tatapult 7b+
Hard (brit 6c) start into easier crack.
12. B Movie 7a/7a+
The right hand boulder problem start to Tatapult.
13. The Shield 7b
The pillar followed by the golden shield.
14. The Easier Warm Up 6c
The rightmost line.
Boulder problems
Left hand traverse Font 6c - Traverse from Toiseach to the wall or up Black Sox.
Right hand traverse Font 7b/c? - climb from the wall rightward and up Tatapult to the flake.
Good eliminates on both sides for warming up or pottering about on.
The large boulder to the left of the crag has one problem - deep deep 7a, climbs from the flake at the (cramped) back of the cave (middle prop boulder is in) to a jug, then up the arete and whatever else.
