Atlantic Avenue

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Wild Sex

One of the best crags on Rubha Mor, with impressive sandstone features and great routes at a range of grades. An afternoon sun-trap which can be warm enough on a winter's day to contemplate a post-climb swim.

Contents

Directions & Approach

Grid Ref: NG 835947

From Slaggan, go through the gate and take the path that passes right of the solitary gable ends and heads towards the beach. Where it branches, take the path that heads north along the top of the grassy cliffs, passing through another gate, until a rocky headland is reached, continue to the wooden cross and rusty metal supports. From here the central slab and wild area can be seen as the closest substantial pieces of rock to the North, particulary the green side of the square pillar of the wild routes and the right to left diagonal of Ellis' route on the central slab. Continue along the cliff top path to the geo, heading down to the left of the geo for routes on the south side or scrambling round on a low horizontal ledge from the right to reach the wide platform below the other sectors.


Routes

Described right to left.

South Side

South Side Topo

Cheech 6m HS
Technical and sustained.

Hello Sailor 6m E1 5a
Thin climbing, low runner in Cheech allowed.

Chong 5m S
Fun climbing up the juggy diagonal.

Wild Area

Wild Area Topo

O La La 12m E1 5b
Snappy.

Wild Sex 12m E1 5b/5c
The right edge of the lower wall is tough, so many ascents use the wide crack round the corner.

Walk of the Wild Side 12m E1 5b
Long reach on the lower wall. An HVS version uses the crack of Wild Sex to start.

Wild Thing 12m VS 4c
Nicely exposed.

Munich Man 12m VD
Finish where you want.

Heron Crack 12m S
Some nice moves.

Lunar Dance 12m S

Central Slab

Central Slab Topo

Nuptial Flight 12m S
Good.

Twinkle Toes 12m S
Tricky.

Trench Foot 12m HS
Nice but short lived.

Ellis' Route 12m HD
The obvious line.

The Gash 12m D

The Gym

The Gym Topo

Bum Thrust 15m S or VS 4c
Either finish is good fun, although the pleasant open corner is soft at the given grade.

Blood Diamonds 15m VS 5a
A better way to reach the offwidth finish of Bum Thrust. Starting at the bottom of the pit between Bum Thrust and The Gash, about a metre or so left of The Gash where there is a small recess in the wall. Steep moves lead up to gear, then towards the arete to find a short lived jamming crack. Wander up to the direct finish of Bum Thrust.

Although the following routes can be start by stepping across the crevasse, they are more commonly started from the wide platform. All are steep.

The Pit 12m VS 4c

The Fissure Brown 12m VS 4c

Writer's Block 12m E4 6a

Malignant Tumour 12m VS 4c
Trust the embedded pebble (the tumour).

Boundless 12m HVS 5a
Will you have enough energy left for the technical moves just before safety?

Wide Eyes 12m VS 5a
Awkward.

The Pit

The Pit Topo

Endless 10m VD
Getting out of the pit isnae easy.

The Bleeding Edge 10m HS 4c
Steep, exposed and juggy fun.

First Ascent Info

Lunar Dance
Date Route(s) Climber(s)
1980s Walk on the Wild Side, Bum Thrust Direct, Malignant Tumour J Robinson and D Neville
1980s Wild Thing D Neville and J Henderson
1980s Munich Man J Henderson and N Brack
1980s Heron Crack, The Pit J Henderson and J Buchanan
1980s Lunar Dance, The Gash, Bum Thrust, Endless J and M Buchanan
1980s Nuptial Flight, Twinkle Toes J Buchanan and J Henderson
1980s Trench Foot  ?
Jul 1990 Chong, Cheech A Cunningham and J Pickering
Dec 1998 O La La, Wild Sex, Writer's Block, Boundless, Wild Eyes P Tattersall and A Katzenmeier
7 Nov 2009 The Fissure Brown C Brown, P Ellis and A James
7 Nov 2009 Ellis' Route P Ellis and C Brown
10 Apr 2010 Hello Sailor J Karran and C Brown
27 Aug 2010 The Bleeding Edge A James and C Brown
19 Aug 2011 Blood Diamonds A James and P Young



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