Binny Craig

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Binny Craig. If you don’t mind loose rock, the crag on the west face of the summit is a pleasant place to climb.

The hill is a formed by a basalt plug, and the crag and tail features show the story of extreme erosive power of ice moving across West Lothian from the west to the east about 18 000 years ago.

Getting There

Grid: NT 043 735 - crag shown on 1:50 000

Binny Craig lies on a prominent hill (220m) between Uphall and Linlithgow on the outskirts of Edinburgh. Oatridge College is very close by and a good place to aim for.

From junction 2 of the M9 Motorway, take the B8046 heading towards Uphall - at the top of the hill turn right (signposted Oatridge farm) and make for the crag.

Climbing

Routes described from right to left (topo), i.e. as encountered on the approach from the layby on the road to the south (NT041731). The first route is on the buttress at the right end of the west face, the others are on the larger left hand buttress - this has a steeper area on the left of an obvious square cut corner, and easier-angled rock to the right of this corner.

Binny craig topo.jpg

West Face

1. 25m Severe
The easy angled arête on the right end of the west face, finishing on the terrace. Where it steepens at mid-height, the loosest flakes can be bypassed on the left.

2. 30m HS / VS.
The most solid rock hereabouts. Follow a rib and continuation groove to a steepening at a flake around 20m. Then either (2a, HS 4c) follow stepped ledges right then left, or (2b, VS 5a) continue up the left-trending groove. 2-bolt belay.

3. 30m VS 4b.
Starting 2m left of the previous route and about 10m right of the obvious corner, follow a rib and continuation groove past some vegetation and dubious flakes. Only Severe if you believe the flakes are solid.

4. 35m 4c (top rope).
Exciting steep climbing weaving a way up the wall to the left of the obvious corner, on reasonably solid rock, starting about 5m left of the base of the corner at a small rib. A leader ought to be able to find sufficient protection for this to be a HVS route. Belay 10m back on stakes (insitu).



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