Boltsheugh

Located on Whiteland Head, just south of Newtonhill on the south Aberdeen coast. The main area consists of very short, very steep sport climbs. To the north and south of this are larger, less steep crags with an assortment of trad lines and the odd sport route.

Directions & Approach

From the A90 south of Aberdeen, take the only turning into Newtonhill and follow the road through the village to a small car part overlooking the harbour. Take the track leading south along the clifftop for a coupe of hundred metres until, just after crossing a small boggy patch, you reach the main crag.

Climbing

Drop Zone 15m HVS 4c
Pete Stephenson, Stuart Stronach. March 2001
Climb the poorly protected arete left of Five by Five to the mid height ledge, and then finish up that route.

Nail in the Coffin 10m E3 5a
John Wilson, Stuart Stronach. Jan 2001
On the southernmost crag at Boltsheugh (identified by a bolt stud showing an abandoned project) are two parallel cracks. Climb the left hand crack with a thin move through the mid-height bulge.

Fear Itself 10m E1 5a
Dave Kirk, Stuart Stronach. Jan 2001
The right hand of the two parallel cracks.

Lie To Me E1 6 0 00-03-2001 Pete Stephenson, Stuart Stronach 1. 5C - Left of "Nail in the Coffin" is an obvious short overhanging crack. Climb it. Not too sure of the grade as I'm 6'3" and I was at absolute full stretch on the crux!

Five by Five E2 15 1 00-08-2001 Adrian Scott, Stuart Stronach 1. 5C - On the big walls south of and below the sports climbs is a large cave. Left of the cave, a crack splits a roof and overhanging wall above. Climb the crack (dynamic for the short) and finish more easily up the final corner.

The Following is taken from: http://www.cairngormclub.org.uk/clubactivities/neclimbs/cragdetails.htm

And describes the Sport Climbing available, and a good set of directions. Not sure if the guide they mention is still available or not.

Boltsheugh

The crag is located south of Dykes Cliff at Newtonhill. Park as for Dykes Cliff but instead of heading east, take the track leading south round the clifftop. After a few hundred metres, it degenerates into a path and crosses a muddy area. Just after this, the top of the crag can be seen on the left. Descent is by easy rocks to the north of the main area, or by ledges between the two main walls. The base of the crag is set well above the sea and is non-tidal (though big waves can affect the place in wild weather!).

The grades given are out of George Ridge's Scottish Sport Climbs Spring '96 guide. The grades in brackets afterwards are perhaps more realistic (?). George's guide covers all the sport climbs in Scotland and at £2.50 is a good investment.

Routes are described from north to south (right to left when facing the cliff)

The first bulging section faces south east.

1. F7b* Deadheads. Short and brutal. British 6b+/6c.

2. F6c* Aches in Provence The arete. Steep! Best done with a sitting start and someone to spot your back. (F6b)

3. F6a+ Crossroads. A bit of a reach at the start, but otherwise no problems (F6a+)

4. F6c Little Creatures. The steep line just right of the obvious crack (The Enemy Within, HVS 5b) (F6b/6b+)

5. F7a Traverse of the Cods. Link the first bolt on 4 to the second bolt on 3, then a bolt of its own and finish up 2. The longest and best route here!

Easy rocks separate this from the next section, which faces north east

6. 6a The Dregs. The rightmost line. Much more fun than the name suggests!

7. F6c+ Automatic. Pumpy, with the crux right at the top.

8. F6c* The Dark Side. A technical lower bulge leads to a steep finish.

9. F6a+ Mo. Gain and climb the sloping ramp.

10. F4+ Miney. Easy line of big jugs. The bolts have been chopped on this route.

11. F5+ Meany. More jugs

12. F5+ Eany. Similar climbing to the two previous routes, except the jugs are smaller!

Further south, past a large cave are two lines taking the next big wall. Neither are particularly worthwhile.

13. F5+

14. F6a

About 100 metres south again is a fine steep wall. The next route climbs this.

15. F6c Down Under. Takes the wall above the rock pool with a steep finish

To its left is a project up the short bulging wall.