Buchan Ness Lighthouse

This limited bouldering venue only holds a few problems, but can be combined with a visit to some of the fine crags nearby.

The wall faces east, and overhangs approx 25 deg. It consists of fairly solid quartzite, providing mainly positive climbing above a good landing, although a mat will be required. It is non tidal, although a really big swell combined with high tide may bring on a soaking! Some of the top outs will require further cleaning.

Problems range from Font 4 to 7b, and are enough to keep you busy for a couple of hours.

The problems described all top out and follow or link up the obvious features, harder more eliminate problems will only be restricted by your imagination…….enjoy!!!

Directions & Approach

To reach it, turn into Boddam as you would for Promontory Wall but continue into the village down through the back streets looking out for Bridge Street on you right.

Head down Bridge Street and park on the left before the lighthouse bridge. Once over the bridge, go down right immediately and follow the stone steps to the base of the wall. (1 minute approach!)

The Climbing

1 Bow wave. Font 4
SS far left end follow the lip up and right to mantle at the top of lost at sea onto the sloping ledge.

2 Porthole. Font 4
SS at round boss feature just right of the recess and move L to obvious hole continue direct to the ledge. Rock up left to finish.

3 Scuppered. Font 4+ *
SS at round boss right of recess, go direct to rock out left to finish. (right hand finish avoiding juggy ledge on left, up thin crack Font 5*)

4 Lost at Sea. Font 6a**
SS at square sloper, direct up crack, long reaches on positive holds to sloping mantle top out.

5 Nimo. Font 6b*
SS at square sloper move right to incut crimp , use side pull in Lost at sea to make a big move to gain “letterbox” slot. Direct to the top via small crimp on the headwall.

6 Neptunes Kiss. Font. 6b+/6c**
SS at side pull and crimp, move up direct to a small slot, gain the triangular pocket in the break above to an exciting sloping top out.

7 Shipwreck. Font 6a *
SS at diagonal rail below shield, climb this direct to finsh on sloping ledge.

8 Moby Dick. Font 5
SS as for the Shipwreck, move right to a pinch and go direct to gain juggy niche, finish up and right.

9 Any Port in a Storm. Font 6b**
A L to R traverse of the wall, below the lip following the diagonal break. Sit start as for problem 1, traverse the recess rightwards under the overlap to gain the break, follow this (holds in break only!) to gain the triangle pocket of Neptunes, finish direct onto the sloping ledge. (Variation, all holds in, Font 6a+**)

10 The Buchan Link . Font 6b+/6c**
SS as for problem 1, traverse low to gain the “hole” move down to the round boss then right again to the start of Nimo (square sloper) follow this to the “letterbox” follow Any port…. to the triangular pocket and it’s sloping top out.

11Buchan Big Cat. Font 7a+***
SS at far left, traverse recess then along obvious low break to finish up Moby Dick

12Beast of Boddam. Font7b**
As Buchan Big Cat but finish up Neptune's Kiss

The Cave

Just slight further along is a small sea cave that may or may not be worth further investigation.