Cambusbarron Quarry

Cambusbarron Quarry is a fine central belt dolerite quarry with easy access to a selection of harder traditional climbs. Cambusbarron is also know as Thorntons Quarry including in the most recent SMC guide, and as the closed quarry. To add to the naming confusion there is also Cambusbarron West Quarry, which is also know as Forth Quarry, and the open quarry, just next door.

There used to be a sport route (Sexed Up, F7C) on an arete at the back of the quarry, but the bolts were removed by locals as the route is protectable. The current view is that bolts should be kept out of this quarry. The line has since been climbed by Niall McNair to give Cybersex 5 at E6 6b/c.

Access

No known access issues - although parking can sometimes be short - please park consideratly.

Directions & Approach

Grid Ref 772 922 - OS Landranger Sheet 57.

Directions

From the South: heading for Stirling, Leave the M9/M80 at Junction 9. From the exit roundabout take the Northerly exit signposted ???, which leads onto Glasgow Road. proceed through the town of Banockburn until you reach a roundabout, and take the first exit. From here take the second left, and when the road curves turn left agin, crossing the motorway, then turn right towards Cambusbarron. Pass though the village and after about 300m make a left turn on to Quarry Road - parking can be found near the barrier at the end.

From the North:

Approach

Approach time: 2 minutes.

Routes

Described from left to right.

Several shorter lower quality routes are found on the left side of the quarry from severe to E2.

Power of Endurance 25m E5 6a *
G. Latter. 1984
Nasty crux at mid height involving a long reach / jump to a good hold.

Quantum Grunt 25m E3 6a **
G.Pedley. May 1984

Visions of Monaco 25m E3 6a
C.Macadam. 1984

Cumacoma 20m E5 6b
Climbs small steep corner to left of next route

Big Country Dreams 25m E4 6a ***

Grace Under Pressure 25m E1 5b *

Formica Crack 25m E3 6a *

Purr-Blind Doomster E5 6a **
C.Macadam. 1984
The initial steep crack to the obvious slot is well protected. From the slot step right to the arete and climb boldly to the jutting spike. Finish more easily.

Quasi Pulls Through 25m E4 6a
K.Spence. 1984

Pig Route 25m E3 5c
Climb the off-width chimney which used to be Oink Oink.

Both Ends Burning 25m E5 6b ***
Climb the cracked wall to a mid height crux where the angle eases. Step right back into the cracks, smearing precarously towards the final lurch!

Fuel for Thought 25m E3 5c
R.Anderson. 1984

The Crowd 25m E6 6a/b
D.McCallum. June 1985

Running on Methane 25m E4 6a

Murrays Groove 25m E2 5c

Autogiro E6 6C **
Gordon Lennox
Climb the arete of Adulterers Repentance to the wobbly spike. From here step up and left to climb the arete above via some excellent moves.

Adulterer's Repentance 25m E3 5c
D.McCallum, D.Simmonds. 19 May 1985.
Haven't climbed it, but it looks mental for E3! Mark Somerville

Economy Drive 25m E3 6a **
R.Anderson, J.McKenzie. 13 May 1985.

Contortionosm 20m E6 6c
The big open corner is lacking in holds. What does a 6c bridging move feel like? Cleaned 09. Perma seepage at start can be towelled down.

Anabolic Steriods E6 6b **
Sustained and varied climbing up the obvious cracked wall. The bold start can be avoided by clip sticking a good nut on the right at 3m. Seepage can be a problem after spells of heavy rain.

The boulder below Anabolic Steriods gives a few worthwhile problems.

LDV Font 4
The slabby right arete

Spanking the Monkey Font 7a ***
The bold left arete described as an intimidating friction problem.

Monkey Spanking Font 7b **
Mike Lee - 2009
The arete of Spanking the Monkey climbed on its steep left side.

Jerkin' the Gherkin 6c+
Simon Munro - March 2004
Up the left arete of the overhanging face of the Spanking the Monkey boulder. Either start from the left, or straight up with a jump.

Withdrawl Wall 5m VS
Ian McCabe - June 2003
12 meters left of "Bo's Arete" is a clean-cut arete. Climb the right wall on positive but spaced holds to gain an easier finish.

Tarzan 15m E3 *
Michael Tweedley, Lee Byrnes
Climbs pillar, left of Spanking the Monkey. Then traverses across seam rightwards to gain an easier left-trending crack.

The Bustup 30m VS 4c
The next routes climb the flat wall at the back of the quarry to the right of a large corner with a capped roof.

Cybersex 5 20m E6 6b/c*?
Niall McNair. June 2009
The old line of Sexed Up F7C without the bolts. Slap up the obvious arete to the left of Nandralone with micro cams to the hanging groove (oops...), ledge and then wall to hanging cracks. Could be harder as prepractised and i can't grade shit above E6....

Nandralone 25m E8 6c ***
Gordon Lennox. 2002?
This route takes the thin crackline 10m to the right of the corner with the imposing loose roof. Gain good holds below main crackline either directly or from the left. Climb the main crack on small finger locks with dwindling footholds (crux). Moving left better holds are eventually gained at 15m. Easier climbing leads to the top. Well protected F8a/+ climbing.

Anger Management 20m E5 6b **
After tackling the boulder problem start switch gear for the pumpy flakes above. Suggested upgrade to E6.

Bobbin Robin 23m E1 5b

Gun Fury 25m E2 5c

Moving Shadow 20m E5 ***
Michael Tweedley, Lee Byrnes - May 2001
To the left of Thug of War. Climb groove to gain a layback crack which leads to a ledge then head left and climb wee headwall. Quite technical.

Trail Blazer 25m E2 5c **
R.Anderson, A.Russell. 8 June 1986.
CLimbs the tasty layback crack above ledge.

Pathfinder 25m E1 5b
R.Anderson, N.Elstone, G.Nicoll. 7 Sept 1986

Thug of War 10m E4 6b
R.Anderson. 31 July 1988
Appropriate name for this short crack.

Phantom Power 20m E1 5b

Dr Dre's Orgazmatron 20m E3 5c

In Hiding 10m E3 5c

Local Amenities

You can find out more about the village of Cambusbarron here: www.cambusbarron.com

There are couple of newsagents on the main street.

There's a pub called The Forrester in the village for a post climb pint.

Youtube clip of Thorntons Quarry