Climbing at Limekilns Threatened

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Concerns over Climbing at Limekilns were once more raised as large wooden boxes were attached to the East, South and West faces of the Gellet Block at the start of the week. Climbers fear that this may be an attempt to circumvent access rights by attracting protected species to the site. So far the Sentinel bloc remains unaffected.

boxes on the West face of the gellert Bloc
boxes on the East face of the Gellert Bloc

The Limekilns venue is located in woodland near the Fife village of Charlestown, the climbing is unsual for this part of the world taking place on 2 large limestone blocks.

Boxes

The boxes were put up on Monday the 8th and Tuesday the 9th June and are constuted from 12mm ply wood. The boxes have been located at about a height of 4m.

The smaller boxes (30cm square) are screwed into the rock with frame fixings (pozi3 size - one per box) and the larger oblong boxes (30cm by 1m) have metal strapping and two bolts each (probably m8 shield anchors).

In total 10 Boxes have been placed on the bloc; There are two wee boxes, and one large box on the DTs face (West), Two of the samller and two of the larger boxes on the Elgins Crack (East) face, and There are also 3 of the big boxes across on the South Face.

Routes

Routes affected include:

  • Elgin's Crack 15m E2 5c***
  • Grasp the Nettle 15m E2 5b*
  • White Ensign 10m VS 4c**

Action

  • Please do not in anyway remove or damage the boxes.
  • Contact Fife Councils Access officer, Alison Irvine, to voice your concern, and report any developments.
  • Please keep MCofS informed of any devlopments. Find out how here: Access Problem Reporting - If you don't let them know the problem they can't act on your behalf.
  • As always, please follow the Outdoor Access Code and the good practice guidelines laid out for this venue; Park consideratly, remove all litter, avoid damging wildlife or property, use the local amenities, and be polite to other people you meet at the venue.

Read more


Susan Guest 10th June 2009

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