Corbies Crag

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Corbies Crag 2 (Small).jpg

Corbie's Crag (Corbie's Craig on OS map) is a small crag in South Edinburgh, located on the south side of Blackford hill, not far from Blackford Quarry

Directions & Approach

The crag is well defended by gorse bushes, and the best approach is probably from the Observatory: Head towards a prominent, craggy knoll about 200m or so south west from the Observatory car park, descending through gorse bushes to the right (west) of the crag. It is also possible to fight your way up through trees and bushes from the linking path between Blackford Glen and Blackford Hill.

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Climbing

The climbs don't get much traffic, and subsequently there is loose rock and vegetation on some routes. The rock has positive, with in-cut holds, but is also very compact and this makes placing protection hard. On the plus side, it has a very pleasant outlook and is easy to get too, being within the city. Combined with a trip to Blackford Quarry, an afternoon can be saved!

Of the routes, Retromingent Ridge and Slab and Tower are both good easy routes. Windchat gives a good VS 4b. The two v.diffs of the crag Fast and Loose and The Trap both have loose rock and only adequate protection, and so feel serious for the grade. Belays anchors can be hard to arrange.

Fast and Loose at Corbies Crag
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