Craigmore

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Craigmore Title.jpg

Rock type: Basalt

Contents

Approach

Chimney Area

Chimney Arête 8m 4c


The Chimney 8m Severe 4a *


Polo 8m 5b


Pol Over 8m 6a *


Tanktop 8m 5c *


Silver Arête 8m Severe 4a *


Glug 8m 3b


Grooved Arête 10m Severe 4c *


Totom 3m V1 5c **


Kit Kat 10m Difficult 3b


Legless 10m 6b *


Wide Eyed 10m V4 6b ***


Harmless 10m 6a *


Arrowhead Left-Hand 10m Severe 4b **


Arrowhead Right-Hand 10m 3b


Chimney Area Girdle 30m 4c

Main Area

Cariad 15m HVS 5b


Magic Crack 15m HVS 5b *


Holly Tree Corner 15m Hard Severe 4b *


The Beast 15m E2 5c ***


Slingsby's Crystal 15m E2 6a **


Jolly Green Dragon 15m E1 5c **


Craigmore Corner 15m HVS 5b ***


Tom and Jerry Wall 15m Very Severe 5a ***


Rampage 15m Hard Severe 4b **


Curving Groove 15m HVS 5b **


Hamilton's Arête 15m E4 6b ***


Daylight Robbery 12m Very Severe 4c


Basil Brush 12m HVS 5b


The Niche 10m Hard Severe 4c ***


Crib 10m Very Severe 5a


Rampant 10m Very Difficult 4a *


Grotty Groove 10m Very Difficult 4a


Sunday Wall 12m Very Severe 5b **


Hot Dawg 10m HVS 5c

Layback Crack Area

Terror 5m 5c **


Bwana 13m HVS 5b


Spinal Wall 15m E2 5c **


Inverlussa Crack 15m E2 5c


White Hope 15m E1 5c ***


White Hope (var. 1) 15m E1 6a


White Hope (var. 2) 15m 6b **


Layback Crack 15m E1 5c ***


True Finish 15m E4 6a


Super Direct 15m E3 6a


Craig's Wall 15m E7 6c ***


Crag Mate 12m Very Severe 5a


Salamander 10m HVS 5b *


Not Another Eliminate 10m E2 6a *


Samson 10m HVS 5b


Samson (var.) 10m 6b *


Sabre Crack 8m Very Severe 4c **


Stiletto Crack 8m Very Severe 4c **


Rapier Arête 8m E1 5b

Blade Area

White Streak 5m 5b


Preliminary Exercise 10m E2 5c


Tae a Moose 3m VB 4a *


Tic Tac 3m V1 5b


Bugs Bunny 6m 3b


Weasel 10m HVS 5b


Stoat 10m HVS 5b *


Autobahn 10m Very Severe 5a **


All Hope 10m Very Severe 5a **


Hendo's Obsession 8m 5c


Elk 6m VB 3a


Ell 6m VB 4a


Tarantula 6m 5b **


Leech Arete 6m 6b **


Leech Direct 5m 6a ***


Leech 5m V1 5b *


Eel 5m VB 4c


Coal Face 5m 4b *


Charcoal Chimney 5m VB 4a **


Black Beauty 5m V0 5a **


Black Power 5m VB 4c


Mat Black 3m VB 4b


Little Buttress

East Wall 3m V0 5a


Pinnacle Wall 7m V0 4c **


Donald Duck 5m VB 4a


Mickey Mouse 5m VB 4b


Piglet 5m V0 5a


Pig's Ear 6m V0 5a


Silk Purse 6m V1 5b


West Wall 6m V1 5b


Extreme Right-Hand Slab

Extrarete V0 5a


Sunshine Arête 5a


Tree Wall 5m V0 5a


Left Arête 10m Hard Severe 4b


Cracked Slab 10m 3b *


The Slab 10m 4a **


Right Arête 6m Severe 4a


Cave Route 5m 3a ***


Slab Traverse 12m 4a


The Wizard 6m V5 6b ***


Wizard Sit Start 7m V8 6c ***


Tarot 6m Severe 3b


Suzy Q 6m V0 5b


Victory V 5m VB 4c


Wopite 5m V1 5b


Expo 5m V1 5b


Toad 8m 4c


Rizla 30m VB 3a


Amphitheatre Girdle 15m 5a

Pine Trees Boulders

Vanguard 3m V0 5a


Sunshine Arête 3m V0 5a *


Sunburn 3m VB 3a


Jamie's Overhang V3 6a *


Nice Guys Finish Last V4 6a **


The Art of War V5 6b *


Surprise Attack V8 6c *


Sanjuro V5 6b


New Routes

Merlin 4m 6B ***
John Watson - May 2006
For those who actually like bouldering at Craigmore, this is probably the most elegant problem here... the wall just left of The Beast, finishing at jump-off jugs on that problem. It's a magical sequence and not hard when worked out... otherwise it seems impossible. Similar tricks to 'Meilleur des Mondes' at Bois Rond, Font.

Latch Key Kid 4m 6C *
John Watson - July 2005
The wall right of Tae a Moose.. direct from RH underput pinch and high left crimp, boom up to jugs...no left wall! Prob. done before, I think Andy G. mentioned it, but it's a superb one move dyno worth doing on the circuit / needs precise kinetics to latch the juggy break. Not hard, just tricky to get the upwards bit just right...

Terminal Arete 6m 6A+ *
John Watson
The double arete on the back of the boulder holding Jamie's Overhang. Difficult smearing and technical positioning up the slab using both aretes.

Swingtime 5m 5+ *
Tim Morrozzo, John Watson
The lip of the Cave boulder hidden below Terror. Climb out of the cave from a SS at jammed blocks, throw in a heel jam and reach round to hold on the lip, cut loose and traverse down and left to rock over the lip. Superb fun.

Beast Lip 4m 6A+ *
Colin Lampton, John Watson
Just right of the Beast start under Jolly Green Dragon, gain the tiny finger slopers in the break and crank all the way up to the big sloper, step right to finish. Nice wee eliminate to add to the circuit here.

Blade Face 6m 5
John Watson
The cleaned face of The Blade provides good climbing to a nervy reach up left to straddle the blade and finish up the arete.

Phosphorous Fur 3m 7A **
John Watson - April 2005
Minimalist brutality... the direct solution to the Cave boulder overhang. Crouch start, RH undercut, LH high slot, puzzle out your body position, then slap right up edges to snatch the lip hold. Finish as for Swingtime or direct at the same grade.

External links


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