Dumbarton Circuits and Super Links

Spice up your life!

Circuits and superlinks on the the Dumbarton Rock boulders

Circuits

General Rules

• Circuits are designed for being timed (only in aid of spicing up your Dumby life, record your times on the discussion page)
• Don’t break your ankles
• Best time will probably be those who take most risk getting down!
• All standing starts

5C Circuit “The Dumby High Ball Race”

1. Tams Route (with true right hand finish)
2. Blue Meanie
3. Presence
4. Route Royale (from top of warm up boulder, in order to keep circuit at 5C)
5. Chahala
6. Hard Cheddar
7. BNI
8. BNI Direct

6A Circuit “The Dumby Classic Race”

1. White Streak
2. Supinator
3. 2HB
4. Torino Sun
5. Mestizo
6. Home Rule
7. Toto
8. Railings
9. Good Nicks (hardest left till last)

Mellow Circuit

1. No. 1 Route Font 2+
2. Friday Fill Font 3
3. Friar’s Mantle Font 4+
4. Ungava Font 4
5. Silver’s Route Font 3+
6. Commercial Route Font 4
7. Erewhon Font 5
8. Chowbok Font 3+
9. Red Streak Font 6A
10. Steptoe Font 3+
11. Zig Zag Font 4
12. Pullover Font 4+
13. PTO Font 4
14. The Blue Meanie Font 5+
15. Home Rule Font 6A (without topout)
16. Snooker Shelf Font 4
17. Skint Knuckles Font 4+
18. Magic Wand Font 4
19. Imposter Arete Font 3
20. Astronomy Font 2 (down climb)
21. Slant Font 4
22. Cheddar Direct Font 4
23. Hard Cheddar Font 5+
24. Juggie Font 4
25. Black Wall Font 5+ (high traverse on jugs R-L)
26. Pendulum Font 4

Super Link Ups

General Rules

• No hanging around bridging between boulders
• No touching the ground!
• Hardest problem usually left to last
• Pump guaranteed

“The Dumbartoner”

Possibly the best link up ever?

1. Sit Down to Pongo Arete – 6B (good power up for rest of problem)
2. Leftwards traverse of Pongo face – 5B (the start of the pump)
3. Down Chahala – 5C (monkey tastic)
4. Railings Extension – 6A (slight addition to pump)
5. Reverse right hand finish to Toto – 6A (now get the fingers pumped)
6. Route Royale wall Low Traverse – 6A (harder than it looks, no hands rest on Route Royale in groove allowed; if you’re brave enough)
7. Presence – 5C (don’t fall)
8. Home Rule High Traverse Extension – 6B (the mega pump with a 6B move to finish)
9. Finish in groove of Head Butt

The Eagle

1. PTO – 5A (nice start)
2. Rightwards traverse of lip to edge of descent and back along to start of:
3. Blue Meanie – 5C (dumby classic)
4. Rightwards traverse of lip to edge of descent and back along to start of:
5. Yappy – 6B (unnamed highball with big undercling move)
6. Rightwards traverse of lip to edge of descent and back along to start of:
7. Snappy – 6B (hardest problem lest till last)

Home Rule Super Traverse

1. Mestizo – 6A (up to finger jug on arete)
2. Reverse Home Rule High Traverse – 6A (get those fingers pumped)
3. Down Home Rule – 6A (no sloppy poppy)
4. Home Rule Low Traverse – 6C (hardest problem lest till last)
5. Repeat as necessary!

The BNI Beast

1. Sit down to Good Nicks – 6B (gets the fingers nicely pumped)
2. Reverse crux of BNI – 5C (no wobbling)
3. BNI Direct – 5C (don’t fall)

Pleasant Pump

1. Sit down to Hard Cheddar – 5C (nice easy start)
2. Very Ape – 6B (no sloppy poppy)
3. BNI Direct – 5C (dumby classic)

The Consolidation of Pump

1. Sit down to Nemesis Arete – 6A
2. Left traverse to back to start – 5B (starting point for Consolidated)
3. Climb consolidated until breaking into Nemesis – 6A
4. Left traverse to back to start – 5C (starting point for Consolidated)
5. Climb consolidated until breaking into Narcosis – 6B
6. Left traverse to back to start – 5C (starting point for Consolidated)
7. Climb consolidated until breaking into Lunik – 6B
8. Left traverse to back to start – 5C (starting point for Consolidated)
9. Climb consolidated until breaking into Cheddar Direct – 6B
10. Left traverse to back to start – 5C (starting point for Consolidated)
11. Climb consolidated until breaking into Hard Cheddar – 6B

The Future of the Dumby Pump

1. Sit down to In Bloom – 6C
2. Continue to Pongo Arete – 6A (don’t go up Pongo!)
3. Reverse Pongo Arete – 6B
4. Consolidated – 6B