Dumbuck

From a guide originally by Dave Redpath.

Dumbuck is the boulderers answer to sport climbing. The routes although short pack a fair punch, which isn't so good when you've still got to clip the rope in. The harder routes require a technique of their own, the amount of toehooks required to progress upwards on slopers sometimes means there are twice as many moves as metres.

Directions and Approach

By public transport: There are regular trains every 30 minutes or so from Glasgow to Dumbarton. The crag is about a 30 minute walk. Turn left out dumbarton east train station, and follow the road to the Dumbuck Hotel. A small right of way path goes around the hotel on the near side which takes you to the A82. Walk a short way east and cross the fence by a grey signal box before the bend. A steep scramble leads up to the crag. Knotted ropes have recently been added to make the approach slightly easier.

By car: Dumbuck is the obvious counter volcanic plug to Dumbarton Rock. The work of the quarry company has left the crag looking detached from the rest of the hillside. Follow the A82 from Glasgow to Dumbarton. Take the turn off for Dumbarton and follow the road around to the Dumbuck Hotel, the crag can be seen above the road from here. Follow description above. Alternatively stay on the A82 after the turn off until a right turn can be made into a housing scheme. Follow the road to the top of the hill and park on the bend. Head across a couple of fields then up to the crag. Note the quarry company have turned a blind eye to climbing here, so discretion is advised.

The routes

Routes described from left to right.

1. Filth Infatuated 10m 5+ (Bolts need checking)
Rosemary Conaly - 1998

2. Project 10m
Another optimistic line.

3. Happiness in Slavery 10m 8b (Font 7c) **
Dave MacLeod - 2004
The steepness left of Voodoo Magic is tackled to a good pinch. A deep egyptian may allow the last good hold to be reached (see movie Chains) Has settled at 8b.

4. Voodoo Magic 10m 8b ***
Andy Gallagher (Reclimbed by Dave Macleod at 8b - 1999)
After a steep dynamic start move up and right past a very small crimp. Either gain the rail direct (Smith method!) or cross-over out right and back in. Finish on jugs left of the final groove. Some grey resin covers the chipped hold that appeared by the 4th bolt crica 2002.

4.a Voodoo Slavery 10m 8a ***
Stewart Brown 2011
Links the start of Voodoo into Slavery for a solid 8a! Move left on Voodoo at the good hold into the undercut move for the good pinch on Slavery. Now continue.

5. Awaken 10m 7c ***
Andy Gallagher - 1990s
Move steeply up to a jug at half height. Make a hard move off a sloping pinch (sidepull out right!) to gain better holds. Hard for the grade.

6. Flesh for Fantasy 10m 7c+ ***
Cammy Fair - 1994
Sharp moves lead to the steep bulge. Move up with your feet on or off to reach a good jug on the right before using the ramp to gain the top.

7. If Six was Nine 10m 7c ** (Bolts need checking)
Andy Gallagher - 1990s
Powerful moves lead to a big undercut, use this to gain the base of the hanging slab, which provides the crux.

8. Parallel 10m 7c * (Bolts need checking)
Andy Gallagher - 1994
Bit of a counter line, good climbing, again the crux is attaining a standing position on the slab.

9. House of Pain 10m 7c+ ***
Andy Gallagher - 1998
The line through the big scoop in the center of the crag. Heel hooks take you up to the crack, now jump to gain a jug, then through the roof to a rapid finish. Became a few moves longer when the chain was moved to the lip.

10. Darty Sanchez 12m 7c+ *
Michael Rudden - 2001
This goes up the start of Gentle Mass Touching, then breaks left (above the second bolt) into the tricky overhanging corner to arrive at the large jug on House of Pain, to finish up this route.

11. Gentle Mass Touching 10m 7c *
Andy Gallagher - 1990s
Make a hard move to gain the undercut groove, pull through this and attack the headwall. 12. Aqua Vitae 10m 8b+ **
Dave Redpath 14/10/12
Make a hard move passing a good undercut to reach a press on the right. Move back left on a series of undercut moves to join GMT at the good crimp by the last bolt.
12.a Project (Closed) 10m
Stay direct Ask D. Redpath.

13. Devastation Generation 10m 8c ***
Dave MacLeod - 27/10/04
A hard slap leads up to undercuts in the scoop. Getting the slot above using the small pocket is the crux and Font 7c in itself.

14. Project (Open) 8m
Start up So Be It and make a large span left off a crimp to a flat hold. With a span maybe F8b; without, dont bother trying...

15. So Be It 8m 8a+ *** (Bolts need checking, needs new chain.)
Dave MacLeod - 2000
Swing up to a jug, step right then make a long reach helped by various small unuseful holds. Still thought to be F8a+ after a crimp broke off above the ramp.

15.a Project (Closed) 8m
Ask S. Brown.

16. Second Sights 8m 7c+ *
Dave Redpath - 1999
A short boulder problem lengthened slightly by the necessity to doubled back after the initial span.

17. Twister 8m 7a+ (Bolts need checking)
Darren Stevenson - 1997
Power gets you over the lip, then you should be OK.

18. Tragically Hip 10m 7a **
Jon Jones - 1997
Same again? The warm-up!

19. Breathe the Pressure 10m 6b+ (Bolts need checking)
Darren Stevenson - 1998
A bit green, but worth the lead in summer.

Some traditional lines have also been done on the hillside to the right of the crag, there should be enough here to keep you going.

External links

UKClimbing.com log book for Dumbuck