Dunbar Crag

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A coastal crag of sandy sandstone, situated to the west of Dunbar Harbour. Check the tides before visiting. The routes on the vertical wall are on much better rock than the impressive overhanging wall of the crag. The routes on that wall are deep water solo-able at high tide.

Approach

At the end of Dunbar high street, take a left turn. Follow the road for about 200m until you pass a garage on your left. Park in the car park just afterwards. Cross the road and follow the steps of the coastal walk down to the sea. The crag is directly below you and is reached by walking down to the right.

Routes

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1. Hoochie Coochie Man 8m 5+ *
Calum Mayland, Deirdre MacDonnell - May 2002
The obvious corner left of Flown back from Boston.

2. Flown Back from Boston 8m 5+ *
Calum Mayland, Ben Ridder - September 2001
The left most route on the wall. Follow many pockets and bolts. A pleasant introduction.

3. Reaching for the Pilot 8m 6a+ *
Calum Mayland, Ben Ridder - October 2001
The line immediately right of Flown Back from Boston. Climb the wall with less pockets and longer reaches.

4. Aching Arms and Dragging Heels 10m 6c+ ***
Calum Mayland - October 2001
The best of the latest trio of routes here. Follow the overhanging lip using heel hooks. Make a hard crank at the end of the lip and follow pockets up the headwall. A few have been spat off by the crank, so keep those guns fully loaded!

The roof to the right (5) holds a partially bolted project.

DWS of Flown Back from Boston.

The main wall has two short routes but sadly the sandstone on this larger section of crag to the right is particularly soft. This might give some good routes in the future if some DIY enthusiast is keen enough to reinforce the rock using a chemical treatment.

Unnamed 10m 8a
M. Smith? - 90's
A short, nasty boulder problem which has had some holds reinforced with sika.

Celebration Day 10m 7b+
Garry Latter - 90's
The right hand route. Start by performing a particularly large figure of four off the low letterbox.



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