Dunglas

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Dunglass is the horrifically loose basalt plug 1km east of Strathblane! Though most of the trad routes (with the exception of The Cross) are death traps and best avoided, the deceptively steep west wall has an excellent sports crag, now with 15 routes. It was partly tradded then bolted by Andy Gallagher in the 90’s, but his routes fell into neglect until rediscovered in 2008 by John Watson and Colin Lambton, who added more bolts and routes, all of which provide punchy climbing between 6a and 7b+. The sports crag stays dry in heavy rain.

For the sport routes a 30m ‘wall’ rope is fine as all routes are no more than 15m. Lower offs can be threaded. Take at least 7 quick draws. Various combinations can and have been done. Excellent wee training venue for the Glasgow area. Don't steal the lower-off krabs - leave them all in place or you will be found and shot. Please also respect projects and leave in-situ quickdraws and ropes in place.

If wanting to set up a top rope a single bolt is located on a boulder above the routes (easily reached by walking up and round). If abbing straight down from this bolt you will arrive at the 4th lower off.

Contents

Directions & Approach

  • Get to Strathblane by bus or bike. If coming by car, park at the Church on the Lennoxtown road.

Approach

  • From the church, cross the road and take the Lennoxtown path along the old disused railway until the crag comes into view.
  • Don’t cross the fields early, but continue to a gate in front of the black face and walk west round the rock to the sports crag.

Access

Note: PLEASE DO NOT PARK AT THE FARM! We want to continue good relations with the farmer.

Please pay attention to the approach notes above.

Climbing

Routes from left to right:

ROUTES ON WALL ABOVE PILLAR (TO LOWER OFF no.1)

1. IMODIUM WALL 7a+ **
J Watson. June 2009
Take the leaning green wall above pillar direct to slopey ledge via excellent sequence, step left after second bolt and finish at apex of steepness. No finishing early!

2. IMODIUM CRACK 6a *
The cracked wall from the top of the ramped pillar. Trend right from pedestal to gain crack, then up left. Direct finish is 6a+.

3. WHIPLASH 6b+ * From the pillar step right to climb to a wee triangular cave, then take the black headwall via undercut in crack and crimps. Finishing right on Mr Poops at half height is 6b.



SHATTERED WALL ROUTES LEFT OF FERNY CRACK (TO LOWER OFF NO.2):

4. MISTER POOPS 6b+ **
The wall and high bulge just right of the base of the pillar, step off shelf. The high 'spike' is a red herring! Named by 5 year old Holly Lambton due to tales of incontinency.

5.. POOP DECK 6c+
The shattered wall just right to gain top of Bahama Breeze. Exciting finish on hidden holds!

6. BAHAMA BREEZE 6c+ *
The ferned crack on juggy holds up left to a cracked bulge crux, surmount this with difficulty.



MAIN WALL TO LOWER OFF NO.3 and 4:

7. NEGOTIATIONS WITH ISAAC 6b *
Andy Gallagher. 1992
Step off shelf on right through embedded boulder bolt. Up through the crack to the wall above and stretchy last moves. Good rest at half height.

8. THE TANNING SALON 7a **
From left shelf trend up and right to horizontal niche, no jug rest out right, and finish up the Seam crack wall.

10. POLITICAL LEGACY 7b *
The direct to the Tanning Salon is very bouldery after the base of crack. Finish just left of and joining The Seam.

11. LANDWARD 6b Up Tanning Salon but finish hard right to Wall of Horrors crack and final lower off. A L-R pumpy girdle.

12. THE BEEF MONSTER 6c+/7a ***
Kerr & McIntyre. 1989
Start on pedestal on right. The original line direct through the central orange streaked bulge to layaway up to the horizontal half-way niche jugs. Shake-out, then finish left or right to 3rd LO (7a) or 4th LO (6c+). The crux is the first few moves but most fall off at the thin top moves.

13. THE SEAM 7a+ *
John Watson. 2008
Step onto pedestal right of Beef Monster start and climb powerfully past the old peg to finish direct up left via second crux crack to reluctant jugs to 3rd LO.

14. AIRHEAD 7a **
Andy Gallagher. 1992
The right hand bolt-line through the low bulging wall (crux) then gain a line of flat holds veering a bit left before finishing up and right through a crimpy wall to final lower off.

15. THE RING CYCLE 7b *** John Watson July 09

Epic link of hardest cruxes is a girdle but feels like Marlena: long and pumpy. Start up The Seam crux and cross through Beef Monster via hard sequence to reach the jugs on Isaac at half height. Climb left under the bulge and through top wall of Whiplash to the far left lower off. For this crag, a Wagnerian 20 meters!



from information contributed by John Watson



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