Dunira

Dunira has one of the best outlooks of any crag in central Scotland. The sport climbing is superb, south facing and a suntrap making climbing possible all year round. The view down the Strathearn valley is to die for and makes the relatively long walk (for a sport crag) totally worthwhile. The crag has a good variety of low to mid grade routes giving varied climbing. This is Rockdust only better in vista! Solitude is guaranteed and the big boulders below the crag may provide some good problems with a scrub.

Dunira is the very obvious wedge shaped crag above the tree line, visible from the long overtaking straight as you leave Comrie heading west. The climbing is similar to Tullimet with steep rock and big holds when needed in the lower grades and good quality, crimpy wall climbing on the harder routes. Thankfully on the harder routes, thank god jugs arrive just when everything starts going wrong. The rock is Schist and has been well cleaned, but some edges, mostly for feet can break unexpectedly so care should be exercised until the crag gets more traffic and settles down. All the routes are very well bolted with resin lower offs.

Top Tips: Bring a tartan rug, binoculars, Cheese and Wine. Walking boots and a change of base layer recommended for the warm-up approach.

Access

It is essential for good relations to be kept with the landowner to follow the directions to the crag closely please.

Directions & Approach

Directions

Approaching from Perth along the A85 or South along the B827 to the A85, head through Comrie, as you pass the village exit signs hit your mileometer and continue for exactly 2.4 miles. Do NOT take the entrance that say's 'Private Road' Access to Whitehouse Only, Continue for a short distance more, round a nasty hairpin and take the next single-track tarmac road on the right that says 'Dunira - Private'. Follow this for 0.3 miles to a crossroads, turn right and continue along the tarmac road running into a dirt track (often pot holes) for another 0.5 miles. Shortly after passing the entrance to 'Greystones' on the left, the road enters a clearing of Rhodedendrons and obvious parking place before a sign that says 'No Vehicle Access'- please respect this (November 2011 update - we tried to park here and the estate manager asked us to park "back on the road" - presumably meaning back 0.5 miles at the crossroads, with due respect for the houses nearby). From the West, pass through St Fillans and just after Kindrochet a bad dirt track sign posted 'Dunira - Private' leaves the A85 on the left. Obvious gate House on left of turn off. Bump down this pot holed disaster or better and preferable, continue 0.3 Miles further along the A85 to the access as above.

Approach

Time: 30 minutes. (Sheet 52 Grid Ref 742 247)

Leave the car park heading east along the same road. Just before the farm buildings (Please keep dogs on lead until well on the hill - Landowner's request) the road forks left along a 'public right of way' and heads up hill. Come back left along the track as it doglegs back on itself above the same field, now heading North West and following a small stream. A short distance further on the main stream heads up the hill on the right and there is a junction of landrover tracks (Sheet 52 Grid Ref 742 242). Cross the bridge over the stream and turn left up a track which initially follows the right side of the stream. Follow the track, keeping left where it forks, to its end near the top of the forest. From the end of the track, traverse left on a faint path to cross the stream. From here the crag is clearly visible up on the left. Cross diagonally through boulders to be well rewarded for your travels and effort.

Amentities

Tullybannocher tea room just outside Comrie is the nearest pit stop going east, offering a good selection of eats. Whilst in the other direction the Clachan Inn at Lochearnhead is probably the best watering hole for climbers heading back west. Comrie itself offers all necessary ammenties and the Comrie Cancer Club Shop often has some nice second hand climbing items, inc hard to find books 'Extreme Rock!' par example.

Routes

The routes are described from left to right. All of the climbs are protected by in-situ gear and resin lower off's. The crag dries very quickly due to its exposed nature.

1. The Whitehouse F6a+ * 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
From the flake at the left end of the crag make a tricky move to gain its top, then traverse out left along a handrail, stand up on the high ledge to gain the left to right break and then don't stop till the top. (Good although escapable!)

2. Whitewash F6b 18m
Scott Muir (2005)
A short savage eliminate, start up Whitehouse then climb directly on small sharp holds to gain the break as above.

3. Twenty Shilling Woodworm F6a * 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
Start up Whitehouse, passing the rotten stump at the base of the steep diagonal break. Swing like a king up the break to the top before the rot sets in. Worth every penny!

4. George's Bush F6a ** 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
Climb the excellent flake 'crack' to join and finish up Twenty Shilling.

5. Glen Bolt'achan Big Gun's F6c *** 18m
Scott Muir (2005)
A great finger lick'in direct son of a route that shoots is barrel right at the very end. Climb the wall direct on magic edges.

6. The Fort Dundurn Gurner F6c+ ** 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
The next line of bolts right should make most folk grimace. A sharp little number heading for the undercut flake at mid-height, then finishing through the small overlap and crack above. Wobble right to finish.

7. Dunira or Die F7a ** 18m
Scott Muir (2005)
Either you do this or you don't. No prisoners taken. The excellent steep and crimpy lower wall leads to a fortunate rest below the roof. From here, pull up and left, before (possibly) returning right to a rocking finish. The route of all evil.

8. Dun Moan'in F6b 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
The superb overhanging crack leads to a slab. Climb the next short wall on flakes and layaways to a final slap. Stroll up to the roof and pull through to an exciting finish. (The very last moves can get a bit dirty!)(November 2011 - bolts not in place)

9. Tullybannocher tea room F5 *** 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
A truly delightful trip up the right to left line of weakness passing through the roofs at the top with ease and in time for Tullybannocher's finest tea and cakes. (November 2011 - bolts not in place)

10. Strathearn Shangrila F4+ ** 18m
Scott Muir (2004)
On the edge of all things great! Climb the arete direct to a tantalising finish and view to savour. (November 2011 - bolts not in place)

Originally from a guide by Scott Muir