Duntelchaig

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Probably the best cragging venue within easy striking distance of Inverness. The rock is Gneiss of varying quality, the best being on the Dracula Buttress, home of the classic pumpfest, Dracula E3, one of the best climbs in the area. Most of the the routes are detailed in the SMCs Highland Outcrops guidebook.

Contents

Directions

Google Map (with all crag locations)

Pinnicle Crag

Compact little crag with a selection of easier climbs. Limited bouldering

Approach

PIN.gif

Head North from the car park, uphill for 5 mins.

Routes

Sare
Listed in the guide book as E4 6b but has since lost holds and pegs. Re-climbed as a highball boulder problem at around Font 7A+, or E6ish in old money.

Dracula Buttress

The finest of Duntelchaig's crags, dominated by an enormous central roof.

Approach

Dracula Buttress.gif

From the car park go through the gate and follow a good track for 5 mins, crag on the left.

Routes

Routes on the crag which don't appear in the SMCs Highland Outcrops guide:

Mummy E1
R. Mackensie 2004
Left of Balrog, climb a ramp to an overlap, use a flake above to gain the upper wall

Monster's Edge E4?
R. Betts 2008
Climb Frankenstein to the base of the groove then the arête on the left.

 ??? E6
R. Betts 2008
The arête left of Wolfman.

Main Crag

Overgrown in places...

Approach

Main.gif

2mins further along the track than Dracula Butress

Routes


Seventy Foot Wall

Good steep wall. Not 70ft.

Approach

70ft.gif

2mins further along than the main crag. Approach through pine trees.

Routes

Routes on the crag which don't appear in the SMCs Highland Outcrops guide:

???? Does anyone know which roofs have been climbed left of slings???

Kill that Crazy Frog E5 6b N. Duboust 2005ish
The wall between Sweeney's Crack and Slings to the half way break (peg). Finish up Slings. No side runners in Slings!

Ping Pong E1 5c M. Lee 2005ish
The wall right of Swastica to a ledge. Then climb a short steep wall and pull over onto the slab above. May've been done before.

Bouldering

Main Jumble

Between Dracula Buttress and 70ft Wall there is a vast jumble of blocs. Most of which have terrible rock and unthinkable landings. There are some things worth seeking out, most of the details in Stone Country's Bouldering in Scotland guidebook.

Backside

Hard to find, but a decent venue exists to the east of the dam. Approach: from the dam, cross the fence on the left and head to a large crooked pine tree 100m East. From here, turn right and follow a small stream up hill to the action. The bracken on the approach can be a nightmare in midsummer, but the bouldering stays clear and has a good chance of being dry in rain.

The Dagger Bloc
Dagger.gif

1. Font 6c?: Left hand arête with tricky top out.
2. The Dagger Font 7a: From the sloper, use crimps on the right the throw for the lip. Hard top out again.
3. The Stabber Font 7a+: Follow the Dagger but continue rightwards to the Rope.
4. The Rope Font 6a: The central arête on good holds.
5. Warm up Font 5

Knife Wound Wall

Knife Wound.gif

1. Font 6a: short wall on crimps.
The vegetated crack is a good warm up, and a dyno eliminate has been done here as well.
2. Font 7b+: Direct sit start into Knife Wound.
3. Knife Wound Font 7a+: The crack line from a sit start. Jump off at the jug.
4. Wooden Nickles Font 7b: A desperate sit start pull to reach a flake and juggie top out.
5. The Settler Font 7c: The crimpiest crimp in the area. Start at the back of the roof at a good ledge. Use underclings to gain the crimp and press above. From here get your foot up over the lip and slap to the hanging arête.
6. Magic Streets Font 7a: From a sidepull and crimp beneath the roof, go to the lip and follow it leftwards to a difficult rock over.

Other Stuff

At Pinnicle crag, there are a couple of good arêtes to climb, up to brit 6b ish. Behind the Main Crag's Chasm, there is a good wall for bouldering with a grassy landing. Eliminates and traverses up to around Font 7A.

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