Findon Cliffs

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The Crags



This is intended as a simple guide to the better climbs on this stretch of coastline. It will hopefully be of some use to visiting climbers or people who are new to the area. More definitve information can be found in the SMC North East Outcrops guide.

(An important note for all visiting climbers: To get the most out of the climbing on these cliffs, climb in the morning with the sun shining onto the walls, many routes are greasy in the evenings)


Weird Sister 50m E3 5c**
Start to the right of the classic E5, Necromancer, turn the roof on its right and traverse the lip leftwards to the belay of Necromancer and follow it over the next roof. Traverse right towards Pterodactyl before clipping a good peg. Pull over onto the steep slab and follow the arete on its left side. Belay as for Pterodactyl. Follow the vague crack between Necromancer and Bat's Belfry to finish.

Pterodactyl 45m E2 5b***
A great adventure up this exciting cliff. Three pitches, with outrageous positions on the final 4c pitch.

Bats Belfry 35m E2 5c***
Another fantastic route, a bit more sustained, but again not to be missed!

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