Glen Lednock: Dam Boulders

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The Dam Boulders lie mainly below the Dam in Glen Lednock. A more comprehensive guide including the boulders on the other side of the valley can be found @

Lednock Boulders.jpg


Zone 1

The Wave

The Wave

The Tube - Font 6a+
K.Howett 06.03
Sit start and traverse the crack from the right topping out at the left hand side.

Breaking Wave - Font 7a ***
K.Howett 06.03
Straight through the centre from sitting, finishing right on dimples.

Afraid of the Wave - Font 7a**
Mike Lee 03.10
The right hand side of the block. Start on 2 chest height crimps, go to the arete and finish on some very rounded holds. May needs pads and spotter. (Landing now has been terraced) Video here

Afraid of the Wave SS - Font 7a+**
Chris Miele 05.12
The sit start uses some sneaky compression to gain the stand

Rimming the Ice Maiden - Font 4+
T.Cross 06.10
Right arete of Wave boulder when standing under cracked wall. layback and smear from a SS to the tip.

Slab Topo
Slab and Tickle - Font 6b*

Chris Miele 05.10
Slab to the right of the wave taken direct.

Temptress - Font 5***
H. Tingle 05.10
Right arete of the slab.

Under the Thumb - Font 6a*
Chris Miele 10.06.10
Temptress arete climbed on the right. Start laybacking and smearing then use both aretes to surmount the roof and gain the top.

Breaking Wave

The Shark

Sharkskin Traverse
Slab and Tickle

Remora - Font 6b+**
A. Russell 25.05.10
Prow from SS

Sharkskin Traverse Font 7a+***
A. Russell 28.05.10
Right to left starting at crack and finishing up 'Remora'

The Flying Bomb

Inhibited Mania - Font 7c ***
S. Clarke 22/07/11
The true sit start to 'Manic Stupor' started sitting on the left at a shallow slot and an undercut, move with difficulty right, up the ramp to gain the lip. Move left at the lip and topout.

Manic Stupor - Font 7b ***
T. Palmer 2006
The overhang started from crouching on the left at a crimp and a press and moving with difficulty up and right to gain the lip.

Tweedley Traverse - Font 6b+
M.Tweedley 2003
Traverse the lip of the boulder.

Cracked Wall

Cracked Wall

Tendency to Crack - Font 6b+*** Tim Cross 06.10
Obvious highball crack line behind Wave boulder. Climb the crack on fingerlocks and edges, past a tenuous layback crux, to a pant wetting topout!!! (May be harder for the short) (

Dambusters Project - Font 7/8?
Thin wall to the right of the crack on tiny crimps with a big move to better distant holds.

Upper Dam Boulder

Upper Dam Bloc
Protein Party- Font 6b+

Chris Miele 27.05.10
LH line on the Upper Dam Boulder. Start at a 3 finger pocket and the blob feature, up to jug rail then through for the top.

Damn Landing!- Font 6c
Chris Miele 20.05.10
Staring on a slopey RH pocket and LH crimp gain the obvious pocket up left and then the crack to a sloping finish hugging the bulge.

Tumultuous Bliss- Font 7a
Tim Cross 25.05.10
Right side of Upper Dam Boulder. Sit start at obvious jug.

Zone 2

Split Rock

Hillbilly Windmill
Floor Routine - Font 6b+

K.Howett 30.08.03

Split Infinity - Font 6a
K.Howett 30.08.03
Rising traverse following the crack from right to left. Top out at the flake.

Back Straddle Roll - Font 6c **
K.Howett 30.08.03
The right arete. Dyno off obvious slopers and mantle out.

Hillbilly Windmill - Font 6b+/6c **
Dave Carnegie 02.06.10
Cave below Split Rock. From flatty and flake at back gain the lip and mantle out. Video here

Floor Routine

Zone 3

Feathering the Penthouse

The Eiffel Tower

Feathering the Penthouse - Font 6a+ **
K.Howett 03.07.03

Eiffel Arete - Font 5
K.Howett 09.07.03

Eiffel Slab - Font 2
R.K.Howett 17.04.04


Canary Wharf

Bonds Gate - Font 6a

K.Howett 24.06.03
SS and escape early from the break before reaching the arete.

Bonded to my Beanie - Font 6b+
Howard Tingle 02.05.10
Overhanging arete right of Bonds Gate on layaways to 2 small incuts on the Bondage traverse. Locate crap left foothold and then lay one on for the top.

Bondage - Font 6c *
K.Howett 25.08.03
SS then traverse the break left to right to finish with a mantel at the flake.

Marshmallows Running Through Your Veins
Elegant Belly Flop

The Squat

Monochrome - Font 7a+
Using 2 crimps on the lip gain the lip with a dynamic move.

The Big Lamp

Dean Street Swagger - Font 6b+
K.Howett 17.04.04
Obvious traverse line from left to right finishing up the prow.

Bottled Dog - Font 4+
R.K.Howett 03.05

Fog on the Tyne - Font 4
R.K.Howett 03.05

Bonny Lasses with Boob Tubes - Font 6a+
K.Howett 17.06.03
Sit start at ledge and move round arete and up using lower of 2 low cracks.

Offshore44 - Font 6a+
K.Howett 12.06.05
Sit start at ledge and move round arete and up using upper of 2 low cracks.

Geordie War Cry - Font 6b **
K.Howett 17.06.03
Sit start at ledge move up direct via the upper left diagonal crack.

Geordie War Cry

Reach For The Sky - Font 6c
Howard Tingle 26.09.2009
Direct on 'Geordie War Cry'/'Best in Toon'. Gain the good edge from the flat hold as per 'Best in Toon' then use poor crimp for the right and the aforementioned good edge for the left gain the Micky Mouse ears direct, strictly no sneaking hands into the crack on the left. A tad crimpy! Finish of your choice.

Best in Toon - Font 6b+ *
K.Howett 19.06.03
Sit start at obvious ledge make moves right on crimps to finish up the crack.

Marshmallows Running Through Your Veins - Font 6a *
T.Cross 10.03.10
Take a small sharp pocket with your left and a crimp with right, gain the slopey ramp and finish direct.

Elegant Belly Flop - Font 6b+ *
On small low boulder left of Big Lamp. Sit start at the left arete, traverse right before manteling onto the top.

Zone 4

White Men Can't Mantle

Tall Man's Boulder

Stretch Shorty - Font 5+
Mark Powell 05.09

Dwarven Stealth - Font 5
Howard Tingle 06.09

Shortround - Font 5
Dougie Hamilton 10.06.10
Boulder to the left of Tall Man's. Climbed using the right arete to gain a standing position on the small ledge then the top.

Wee Man Boulder

Stumpy's Revenge - Font 5+
Howard Tingle 05.10

Low Roof

White Men Can't Mantle - Font 6c+?
Chris Miele 07.06.10
The obvious low roof at the top of the boulder field. Mantle out the right side using feet on slab to get established.

Cadbury Bloc
Low Roof

Cadbury Boulder

Milk Tray Man - Font 6b+ **
Chris Miele 06.10
On boulder up from Reiver's stone climb the obvious chalked arete, making good use of your heel.
Bournville - Font 6a+
Chris Miele 07.10
Just left of Tall Mans Bloc. The hanging groove on the Cadbury Bloc from standing. No using the prop block for feet!

Zone 5

The Reiver's Stone

Red 22

Only Fools Direct - Font 6a
H.Tingle 05.10
Obvious direct into Only Fools with Horses through the small roof/overlap at the end of the leftwards traverse.

Only Fools with Horses - Font 6a
K.Howett 27.07.03
Start on starting hold of Sneak by Night pull over up and left and finish up centre of slab

Sneak By Night - Font 6b **
K.Howett 27.07.03
East wall, hanging slabby right arete.

Reivers Logic - Font 7a+ ***
K. Howett 23.10.03
The left arete from a SS on sharp holds and gain holds on 'Sneak by Night'. Crossthrough to move round onto the face and up on better holds with little for the feet

No Hiding Place SS - Font 6a **

Start as for 'Billy no Clan' before using a small flake to move left onto the slab and up. (Font 5 from standing)

Billy No Clan - Font 6a
R.K.Howett 16.11.03
SS and follow the rising left to right crack.

Hairy Mounts Variation - Font 5
Hanging start on the ledge, matle onto it and finish easily up slab above.

Night Walker - Font 6a*
K. Howett 23.09.03
Sit start at obvious ledge, move left and finish up hanging flake.

Red 22 - Font 6a+ ***
Direct and blind through the bulge of Night Walker

Blood Breakfast - Font 4
K. Howett 23.08.03
Start as for Night Walker, move right to slopey ledge and up via obvious flake.

There and Back Again - Font 3
R.K.Howett 04.03
Obvious large cracks in East face.

The Reivers Stone

The Kist

The Hurde - Font 6c
C.Miele 05.13
Left arete from sitting on the small boulder.

Secret Haul - Font 5+
K.Howett 16.06.03
Obvious Central line from sitting.

The Key - Font 7a *
K.Howett 17.06.03
SS at the right arete on a slopey hold, move left and pull over onto the slab on tiny holds.

Zone 6

The Real Estate Bloc

Astride the Balustrade - Font 6b
K.Howett 07.06.03
Layback the left arete. (SS - Font 6c)

Keep it Unreal - Font 7a+**
T.Carruthers 06.12.03
Cllimb the rounded right arete on it's right side from sitting.

Elizabethan Chorus - Font 6a
K.Howett 09.07.03

Column Inches - Font 6b+
K.Howett 09.07.03
Nice long moves on crimps up the centre of the face finishing just right of the small roof.

Rock Around the Bloc
The Crispiest, Flakiest Garden Ideas - Font 6a+

K.Howett 07.06.03

The Selling Point - Font 6b+
K.Howett 07.06.03

The Makeover - Font 4
K.Howett 06.06.03

Mean Street - Font 6b+
K.Howett 05.03
Traverse of the east wall.

Cobble Street Treat - Font 6a+
K.Howett 05.03
Traverse of the north face.

Rock Around the Bloc - Font 7a **
L.Hughes 05.04
Traverse of the east and north walls with the crux moves passing the arete.

Upright Boulder

Ring of Love - Font 6a
K.Howett 06.06.03
Traverse of the boulder.

Gazing Out - Font 4+
K.Howett 09.06.03
Left arete started standing in the hole.

Reluctance - Font 5
K.Howett 06.06.03
Right of gazing out use two eye level holds to gain large sloping holds and the top.

Bowl Management - Font 3
K.Howett 06.06.03
Start standing on the flat rock at a jug and move via small holds to the horizontal crack and the top.

Seamless Thantitis - Font 6a
K.Howett 06.06.03
Eliminate starting at a layback and only using holds in the seam which rises from it.

The Elegant's Stool - Font 5
K.Howett 06.06.03
The slight scoop in the arete.

Lineup - Font 4
K.Howett 06.06.03
Follows the line of the hairline crack.

Delicatessence - Font 6a+ *
K.Howett 06.06.03
Dynamic to the first break, easy to the second.

Tims Got A Problem - Font 6c
T.Carruthers 09.06.03
The undercut right arete. Sit start up on slopers to the ledge and then top.

Zone 7

Bog Trotter Boulder


Moss Side - Font 5+
K. Howett 02.07.03

Tsunami - Font 7b
T. Carruthers 06.12.03
SS to the hanging slab with a couple of hard moves to start off a large flat sidepull.

Marsh Man - Font 5
K. Howett 15.04.03

Boggin' - Font 6a+
K. Howett 15.04.03

Kid's Boulders

A number of smaller blocs lie in this area with many short problems a number of which are ideal for children. These are detailed in the Stone Country Guide mentioned above.

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