Glen Nevis Bouldering
From ScottishClimbs
Glen Nevis Bouldering
Contents |
Polldubh
The Cameron Stone
Jazzmataz font 6a+
Ye Ken font 6a *
The Shelf font 5 *
N.D.D.B font 5+
A Dram for Donald font 6a *
Man of Mystery font 7a **
The News in Pidgin Gaelic for White Settlers font 7c+ ***
Shifting Sands font 7b+ *
The Right to Silence font 7b ***
Inspector Clueso font 6b *
Woolly Jumper font 4 *
A'Gauche font 6a
The Nose font 5 *
Sciolism font 6c
Stepping in Silence font 7c+
No Guru font 7c+
Riding an Asteroid font 6c
Pram Pusher font 5+ *
The Heather Hat
The Wall font 6c **
Theory of Relativity font 5+ *
Maisie Gunn's Magic Midgie Cream font 6b ***
Pagan Uilleann font 7a+ ***
The Pagan Direct font 7b+ **
Under the Hat font 7c *
Midnight in a Perfect World font 6c+ **
Killer Instinct font 6c+ ***
Pinnacle Ridge Boulders
Deep Breath font 8a ***
Deep Breath Arete font 7a **
HEART STONE
Shorelines font 6a ***
Heart of the Sunfont 6a
YELLOW STONE
Groove Armada font 6a
Hidden Wall/Sundown Slab font 4+ *
Arete font 4
Yellow Belly font 6a
Evil Under the Sun font 6a
GALL STONE/STANDING STONE
Hamish font 7a ***
MacTavish font 7b *
The Prow/The Nose font 5 **
Moustache (The Prow SS) font 6b **
Sky Pilot
Approach ???
Tinderbox font 6c+
Climb the left prow from a SS on the pink granite jugs the left. Swing steeply underneath before making awkward moves upwards to follow a handrail right and then the final crack onto the hanging slab.
Big Long Now font 8b/8b+
Starts on the left arete of the crag, traversing right for 50m or so, through Tinderbox, down the slopey lip (hard) through beatle Back to finish up Burning the Candle.
A. Beatle Back font 7c ***
Obvious traverse following the low break. Start by a block and follow the break right to a hard cross through move and drop down. Continue more easily to finish up Auto Roof. There is a high variation avoiding the crux at font 7b+.
Beatle Back/Burning the Candle Link font 7c+
B. Catch 21 font 7b **
An eliminate through the crux of Beetle Back. Take steped sidepull with left and the BB pinch with right then jump to catch a slopey jug. Holding the swing is the crux. There is a SS at font 7b+. Originally climbed in mistake for Catch 22!
Catch 22 font 7c **
Cubby's eliminate testpiece. Start just left of the Beatle Back crux pinch on stepped sidepull with RH as a press, pinchy undercut LH. Get LH press above and jump to the sloper above. Crux holding swing is frustratingly hard.
Seven of Nine font 8b+ ***
Start SS awkwardly on the small boulder at the foot of Sky Pilot, climb up and left through the protruding jug and attack the overhanging wall directly to the pod via a desperate sloper move. Continue directly (dangerous) and traverse right on a break above the lip to gain easy ground on the slab.
C. Sky Pilot font 6c+ *
A steep highball excursion E5 6b on a rope.
Good Spirits font 7b *
Parallel and harder line to Sky Pilot. Sart on the horizontal jams and climb directly.
D. Auto Roof font 6a ***
Tricky moves on sloping holds may help you reach a jug. Continue for the trad tick. Excellent sit start up the crack running into it at Font 6a+.
Burning the Candle font 7a+ *
Just to the right of Auto Roof make a long reach for a RH sloper off a good undercut/pinch.
E. Bigfoot font 8a+
SS in the centre of the overhanging wall right of Auto Roof. Pull up past a good fingerlock and if you can match the horrendously thin break above, jump to a lovely sloper bump on the top lip and pull onto the ramp.
F. Press Gang font 7c+ ***
Just left of the small corner, SS on tiny presses. Press upwards and gain a crimpy RH undercut and then the breaks above.
G. Lip Traverse font 7a+ *
Follow the lip right of the corner from SS.
Boothill Boulders
???
Gorge Area
???
Saturn Crack
Pine Alp Area
Access
Approach as for Whale Rock but continue up the hill to its right following a steep spur past the waterfall to reach a small alp.
Waterfall Boulder
The first boulder reached on the approach has a stunning arete.
Waterfall Arete font 5+ ***
Waterfall Arete SS font 6a+ ***
Spirit Crack font 6b+
Spirit Crack SS font 7b
Slabby Wall font 5+
Unamed font 6a
Descent font 4
Highball Cracks font 6b+
Skeletal Boulder
This boulder is located a little further back on the plateau. Described from left to right begining on the valley face.
Flakes font 6a ***
Slanting Groove font 5+ *
Eliminate Arete font 7b+
Sylvestris font 7a ***
Sylvestris Arete font 6a
Frontal System font 8a **
Michael's Problem font 6a+
The cave itself contains.
Cave Headwall font 7a **
Bear Trap Prow font 8a+ ***
Follows the impressive right arete of the cave from the back. It has a variation heading up at half way at 7c+.
Plateau Boulder
??????
Easy Slab font 4+ **
Stewart's Problem font 6a+
Span Spanner font 7a
Cake Off font 6b+
