Glen Ogle

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Mike Lauder on Tosser Velocity, Concave Wall - dark side

Glen Ogle is Scotland's sport climbing heart land. Here lies the greatest concentration of sport routes in the country and over 200 routes mean that there is something for nearly everyone. Generally the routes are short, but some are very short. The rock is Mica-schist and the quality varies.

The Glen itself stretches for 11 km Northwest from Lochearnhead to Lix Toll, and is a major thoroughfare bisected by the busy A85 road, to Oban and Fort William, as well as an old railway, the River Ogle and a line of pylons. Gary Latter is probably being a bit harsh calling it the highlands least aesthetic glen, and while it does show signs of human impact, it nevertheless has it's charms. When the drone of the road drops, and all you can hear is the waterfall, the view down over Ben Ledi can seem almost tranquil.

On the East of the road lies The Sunny Side and on the West The Dark Side; it will come as no surpise that one of these catches the sun, and the other does not.



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The A85 passes through the Glen


Uphill 1 -(5/6 cars) A large, but rough carpark just after the viaduct.

Uphill 2 - (2/3 cars) Just over the brow of the hill, neat where the old railway path rejoins the road.

Downhill 1 - The tea van stop. Large carpark popular with bikers and tourists, due to the tea drinking potential

Downhill 2 - (1/2 cars) Small tarmaced layby

Downhill 3 - (2/3 cars) Small gravel layby. Take care exiting

Downhill 4 - NOW BLOCKED. Just after a bad bend


The latest advice from MCofS is

There may be an occupied nest on White Wall on 'The Dark Side'. If so, this should be avoided. All other buttresses and climbs are unaffected.

In the past Buzzards have nested on Buzzard Wall, so pay attention here, and if they are present go elsewhere.

General advice on bird nesting can be found here:

If you are unsure, or have new information please contact MCofS (


Glenogle (Gael. gleann-eagal, ' valley of dread ')

Back in 1872 the OS described Glen Ogle as "a close, gloomy defile" and a weren't too optomistic about the rock quality"Hundreds of runnels streak its cliffs, which look to have been shattered by shock of earthquake" [1]. Unsurprising then that it didn't really catch the attention of climbers until the early 1990's.

The Climbing

Because of the volume of routes in Glen Ogle the climbing section has been divided as follows;

(Click the links)

Sunnyside Crags

The North East flanks of Glen Ogle are scattered with several small crags containing sport climbs in the lower to mid grade range.

The Dark Side Crags

The West side of Glen Ogle only catches the sun in the morning, and can be prone to midges. The climbing is generally short, steep and hard.

Glen Ogle Bouldering

Check out

Sport Ticklists

Starred routes to tickle your fancy

5/5+ 6a F6a+ 6b
  • Loose Living
  • Short Sharp Shocked
  • Mona Sleeza
  • The Greenhouse Defect
  • Hot Chocolate
6b+ 6c F6c+ 7a
  • Burnt Offerings
  • Chimera
  • Far Beyond Driven
  • Driven to Distraction
  • Ghost Trail
  • Metal Guru
  • Arc of a Diver
  • The Pack Horse
  • The Guilt Trip
  • Cony the Calvanist
  • Having a Little Flutter
  • Bold Finger
  • Rush
  • Blithe Spirit
  • Face the Heat
  • Restless Souls
7a+ 7b 7b+ 7c
  • Scaramanga
  • Slave to the Rhythm
  • Overkill
  • Children of the Revolution
  • The End Justifies the Means
  • Chain Lightning
  • Fight Fire with Fire
  • Tosser Velocity
7c+ 8a 8a+ 8b
  • Spiral Tribe
  • Off The Beaten Track
  • Solitare
  • Ceasefire
  • Digital Quartz
  • Snipe Shadow


Guidebooks covering Glen Ogle include:

Scottish Rock - Volume One, South.
Gary Latter, 2008. Pesda Press
Bouldering in Scotland
John Watson, 2007. Stone Country
Highland Outcrops.
Ed. Kevin Howett, 1998.Scottish Mountaineering Club/SMT

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