Goat Crag

The centre right side of Goat Crag has a handful of sport routes. These provides several fine stamina hauls with a great outlook. The left side and central archway section of Goat crag have several existing traditional climbs (and lots of scope for more). The short bulging wall and steep wall on the right have been designated for sport climbing. As with most Scottish crags there's an abundance of midges and ticks around in summer so dress appropriately.

Routes equipped by: Murdoch Jamieson, Andy Wilby, Colin Meek, Paul Tattersal and Paul Thorburn to varying degrees.

Directions & Approach

Any directions?  Where is it?

From the car park climb over the fence at a makeshift stye and follow a rough path up the hill trending slightly right to the foot of the crag.

Routes

Routes are described from left to right.

The first routes lie on the short steep overhanging wall right of the archway.

• Broken Silence - F7c **
  Takes the central line powering through the bulge with a tricky third clip (bring some duck tape to hold draw in).

The next routes take the much larger wall and arete right of a corner.

• Teepee - F6a+ *
  The corner to a tricky finish.

A good F6c+ warm up can be done by climbing Teepee to the ledge then heading right and joining Too Old to be Famous above the roof. If you think I can get a name for this one, dream on.

• Too Old to be Famous - F7b **
  Tackles the wall and short roof right of Teepee.

• The Mighty Atom - F7b+ **
  Follow cracks to a small resting recess before tackling the steep buldge above to better holds.

• Mactalla - F7a+ ***
  Excellent steady wall climbing with one harder move up top.

• Goat Prow (left variation) - F7c **
  Arete LH.

• Goat Prow - F7c+ ***
  Direct finish.

• Project
  Follows arete directly.

• Project - F8a **
  Corner into Arete.