Happiness in Slavery

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Dave MacLeod has completed a new route on the sport crag of Dumbuck, Dumbartonshire.

After many attempts at other Redpath projects at the crag in early 2004, Macleod turned his attention to the neglected line left of Voodoo Magic (F8b). After many days effort (well more than he expected for an F8b) Dave came away with the first ascent of 'Happiness in Slavery' F8b+. Now the hardest (climbed) sport route in Scotland!

Dave's comments were "I've graded it F8b+ but its probably low in that grade? It felt harder to RP than Chronique (F8c in Ceuse) but the climbing felt slightly easier (I know that doesn't make sense). Basically, its never 8c and its never 8a+, It might be 8b but I figured I've been doing F8bs (about 10 now) in 1-3 days for 4 years now and I'm not getting weaker. I would have done this one 3 weeks ago if it was 8b!".

With good sport climbing conditions well on there way out till autumn, Dave will have to wait patiently to complete his other Dumbuck bugbear.


Reported by Dave Redpath (14-05-2004)

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