Hardest Scottish Sport Routes

From ScottishClimbs

Jump to: navigation, search


Scottish sport climbing routes of F8a and above. Routes are sorted by difficulty based on the consensus after repeat ascents (also listed). There is also a list of open sport climb projects some of which may join this list in the immediate future. See also the list of the UK's hardest sport routes.



  • Ring of Steall
    Steall Hut
    Dave MacLeod (2007) - (Unrepeated)


Did you know...
you can get emailed when this page is updated?
Find out how
  • Body Swerve
    The Anvil
    Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Smith)
    Slight hold breakage on crux, making route a tad harder now. (Malc ya fat bas***d!)


  • The Smiddy
    The Anvil
    Malcolm Smith (2007) - (Unrepeated)
  • Body Blow
    The Anvil
    Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Smith, Cassidy)
    Hold breakage since making start harder F8b+/c.
  • Happiness in Slavery
    Dave MacLeod (2004) - (Cassidy, Redpath, Smith)
    Steep 7-9 move boulder problem weighing in at V10/Font 7c+. A reach helps a lot on the final move.


  • Steall Appeal
    Glen Nevis
    Malcolm Smith (1993) - (Unrepeated - 8b+?)
    Reachy and hold has deteriorated since FA F8b+?
  • Snipe Shadow
    Glen Ogle
    Dave MacLeod (2004) - (Unrepeated - 8b+?)
    Hard pocket pulling into dynamic crux.
  • Fire Power
    The Anvil
    Dave Redpath (2007) (Smith, MacLeod) Consensus is growing for F8b+. Is it really as hard as something like Magnetic Fields or Zeke the Freak - both short F8bs down south? Is it as harder than Snipe Shadow or even Slavery?
  • Merchant of Menace
    Stuart Cameron (1992) - (Numerous)
  • Black Out
    The Anvil
    Malcolm Smith (2007) - (Unrepeated)
    Hard crimping at top.
  • Digital Quartz
    Glen Ogle
    Iain Pitcairn (1993?) - (MacLeod, McNair)
  • Voodoo Magic
    Andy Gallagher (Reclimbed by Dave MacLeod at F8b - 2000) - (Numerous)
    Chipped hold filled and restored to F8b.
  • Hurlyburly
    Newtyle Quarry
    Dave MacLeod (2003) - (Numerous)
    Bloody desperate for 8b seems to be the consensus. Popular due to easy access, no smeg and midges.
  • Stolen
    Glen Nevis
    Dave MacLeod (2007) - (Numerous)
    Burley and sustained even after the no hands rest - Scotland's best grade 8? Sticking at F8b still.


  • Blood Fire
    The Anvil
    Alan Cassidy (2007) - (Smith, MacLeod, Sutton)
    Bouldery then steady to final crux..
  • Apollo
    Tighnabruaich Viewpoint
    Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Unrepeated)
    Crazy steepness across Kraken roof prolonged by technical sequence.
  • Solitaire
    Glen Ogle
    Dave MacLeod (2004) - (McNair, Cassidy)
    Easier sequence than original pulling right out of arete. However, this method escapes bolted line and its neccessary to run it out (?). Stick with the original line for F8b :) Wrong, there is no run out and you have not escaped original line, a new hold was found which eliminated need to match on the sloper after the mono- N Mc
  • Negative Creep
    Dumbarton Rock
    Dave MacLeod (2004) - (None)
    Easier sequence found at F8a+. Who by?
  • Hand of Andromeda
    Tighnabruaich Viewpoint
    Dave MacLeod (2003) - (Cassidy, Sutton, Smith)
    Ace 3D roof that's brutal then fingery.
  • So Be It
    Dave MacLeod (2000) - (Numerous)
    Has lost a hold and is harder now.
  • The Niche
    Stuart Cameron (1991) - (Numerous)
    Brutal crux that's near impossible for shorties.
  • Leopold
    Glen Nevis
    Murray Hamilton (1993) - (Numerous)
    Partially retrobolted crack with some fixed gear.
  • Cease Fire
    Glen Ogle
    Dave MacLeod (2001) - (McNair)
    Desperate sloping crimpy sequence - best tried on a cool windy day.
  • Spitfire
    The Anvil
    Dave Redpath. 2004 - (Numerous)
    Excellent crimpy overhanging wall with a dynamic finish.
  • Dangleberries
    Orchestra Cave, North east
    Ally Coull. 2008 (repeats unknown)
    Takes the central line through the full height of the cave


  • Spiral Tribe
    Glen Ogle
    Duncan McCallum (1993) - (Numerous)
  • Off The Beaten Track
    Glen Ogle
    Paul Thorburn (1993) - (Numerous)
  • Ubuntu
    The Camel
    Dave Redpath (2007) - (Numerous)
    Settling at hard(-ish) F8a?
  • Suffix
    Dumbarton Rock
    Ross Henighen (2006) - (Cassidy, Litster)
    Sufference is 7c+. (I would say 8a for Sufferance for onsight? - has it been flashed or onsighted yet? mmcg.)
  • Tales of Creation
    Neil Shepherd (Morrison no?) (1995) - (Numerous)
    An F8b climbers F7c+.
  • Blob Strop
    Orchestra Cave, North East
    Ally Coull (2008) (repeats unknown)
    Line right of Dangleberries..

Hardest Scottish Trad Routes || Hardest Scottish Boulder Problems || Hardest Scottish Winter Routes
Personal tools