Scottish sport climbing routes of F8a and above. Routes are sorted by difficulty based on the consensus after repeat ascents (also listed). There is also a list of open sport climb projects some of which may join this list in the immediate future. See also the list of the UK's hardest sport routes.
9a
8c+
- Ring of Steall
Steall Hut
Dave MacLeod (2007) - (Unrepeated)
8c
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- Body Swerve
The Anvil
Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Smith)
Slight hold breakage on crux, making route a tad harder now. (Malc ya fat bas***d!)
8b+
- The Smiddy
The Anvil
Malcolm Smith (2007) - (Unrepeated)
- Body Blow
The Anvil
Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Smith, Cassidy)
Hold breakage since making start harder F8b+/c.
- Happiness in Slavery
Dumbuck
Dave MacLeod (2004) - (Cassidy, Redpath, Smith)
Steep 7-9 move boulder problem weighing in at V10/Font 7c+. A reach helps a lot on the final move.
8b
- Steall Appeal
Glen Nevis
Malcolm Smith (1993) - (Unrepeated - 8b+?)
Reachy and hold has deteriorated since FA F8b+?
- Snipe Shadow
Glen Ogle
Dave MacLeod (2004) - (Unrepeated - 8b+?)
Hard pocket pulling into dynamic crux.
- Fire Power
The Anvil
Dave Redpath (2007) (Smith, MacLeod) Consensus is growing for F8b+. Is it really as hard as something like Magnetic Fields or Zeke the Freak - both short F8bs down south? Is it as harder than Snipe Shadow or even Slavery?
- Merchant of Menace
Balmashanner
Stuart Cameron (1992) - (Numerous)
- Black Out
The Anvil
Malcolm Smith (2007) - (Unrepeated)
Hard crimping at top.
- Digital Quartz
Glen Ogle
Iain Pitcairn (1993?) - (MacLeod, McNair)
- Voodoo Magic
Dumbuck
Andy Gallagher (Reclimbed by Dave MacLeod at F8b - 2000) - (Numerous)
Chipped hold filled and restored to F8b.
- Hurlyburly
Newtyle Quarry
Dave MacLeod (2003) - (Numerous)
Bloody desperate for 8b seems to be the consensus. Popular due to easy access, no smeg and midges.
- Stolen
Glen Nevis
Dave MacLeod (2007) - (Numerous)
Burley and sustained even after the no hands rest - Scotland's best grade 8? Sticking at F8b still.
8a+
- Blood Fire
The Anvil
Alan Cassidy (2007) - (Smith, MacLeod, Sutton)
Bouldery then steady to final crux..
- Apollo
Tighnabruaich Viewpoint
Dave MacLeod (2006) - (Unrepeated)
Crazy steepness across Kraken roof prolonged by technical sequence.
- Solitaire
Glen Ogle
Dave MacLeod (2004) - (McNair, Cassidy)
Easier sequence than original pulling right out of arete. However, this method escapes bolted line and its neccessary to run it out (?). Stick with the original line for F8b :) Wrong, there is no run out and you have not escaped original line, a new hold was found which eliminated need to match on the sloper after the mono- N Mc
- Negative Creep
Dumbarton Rock
Dave MacLeod (2004) - (None)
Easier sequence found at F8a+. Who by?
- Hand of Andromeda
Tighnabruaich Viewpoint
Dave MacLeod (2003) - (Cassidy, Sutton, Smith)
Ace 3D roof that's brutal then fingery.
- So Be It
Dumbuck
Dave MacLeod (2000) - (Numerous)
Has lost a hold and is harder now.
- The Niche
Balmashanner
Stuart Cameron (1991) - (Numerous)
Brutal crux that's near impossible for shorties.
- Leopold
Glen Nevis
Murray Hamilton (1993) - (Numerous)
Partially retrobolted crack with some fixed gear.
- Cease Fire
Glen Ogle
Dave MacLeod (2001) - (McNair)
Desperate sloping crimpy sequence - best tried on a cool windy day.
- Spitfire
The Anvil
Dave Redpath. 2004 - (Numerous)
Excellent crimpy overhanging wall with a dynamic finish.
- Dangleberries
Orchestra Cave, North east
Ally Coull. 2008 (repeats unknown)
Takes the central line through the full height of the cave
8a
- Spiral Tribe
Glen Ogle
Duncan McCallum (1993) - (Numerous)
- Off The Beaten Track
Glen Ogle
Paul Thorburn (1993) - (Numerous)
- Ubuntu
The Camel
Dave Redpath (2007) - (Numerous)
Settling at hard(-ish) F8a?
- Suffix
Dumbarton Rock
Ross Henighen (2006) - (Cassidy, Litster)
Sufference is 7c+. (I would say 8a for Sufferance for onsight? - has it been flashed or onsighted yet? mmcg.)
- Tales of Creation
Balmashanner
Neil Shepherd (Morrison no?) (1995) - (Numerous)
An F8b climbers F7c+.
- Blob Strop
Orchestra Cave, North East
Ally Coull (2008) (repeats unknown)
Line right of Dangleberries..
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