Limekilns
From ScottishClimbs
Limekilns is great place to climb, situated just north of the Fife villages of Limekilns and Charlestown.
One of the things that makes these crags special is that the rock and climbing are of a different nature from what is typically found in the area. The climbing is on two limestone blocks, the Sentinel & the Gellet.
Grade spread; S to E7
Contents |
Directions & Approach
Directions
Leave the M90 at Junction 1 - heading toward Rosyth. Travel west for about 1 and a half miles, crossing over 3 roundabouts. Turn left towards Limekilns. Go through the village of Limekilns and carry on to the small village of Charlestown. In the village, follow the road round to the back of the village green, and down a lane. Park considerately
Approach
From the village green follow the lane toward the bowling club - go through a set of cast iron gates. carry on along a track.
- For the Sentinal leave at the first track that heads up on the left.
- For the Gellert block, leave the track by the corner of the bowling green and head up left through the wood to a deer fence on the ridge.
Access
It has a history of access issues which have not been totally alleviated by the Access Code, so tread carefully.
eg: Climbing at Limekilns Threatened from 2009
General
There are areas of loose rock - worsened by the last few colder winters - care should be taken particularly at the finishes of some routes.
The Sentinel
Decent is by abseil.
The South Face
Pickwick 12m VS 4b
Martin Bennett, Ron Cowels. April 1982.
The left arete
Hunter and the Hunted 12m E1 5b
A Kay. 1983
An eliminate, starting 3m right of the left arete
Humbug 12m VS 4c*
Martin Bennett, Ron Cowels. March 1982
The narrow left hand crack line, which goes up the middle of the wall.
The first route at Limekilns, named for the black and white trousers stretched over the anatomy of a young mum out walking with her child, especially their appearance as she bent over the pram to tend the baby! The naming of the second route, Pickwick, picked up on the Dickensian implications. Other routes by the original discoverers, subsequently re-named by others having been done in better style, were called Wackford Squeers, Marley's Ghost, Fagin and Magwitch.
Stag Dubh HVS 4c 12m
Johnny Dyble, Jim Shanks. March 2005
E1 5a Climb between the cracklines of Humbug and Kiln Dance with Me without recourse to either route for holds or gear. Stay true to the rules (and route!) for maximum effect as the cracklines draw closer together nearing the top. Unprotected and serious with the crux near the top, but a really good eliminate.
Kilndance with me 12m VS 4c
The narrower right hand crack line.
Empires and Dance 10m HVS 5a
Start 2m in from the right arete and head straight up.
Dingley Dell 10m Severe 4b
1983
Start as for Empires and Dance, but then moves outward to climb the right hand arete.
The East Face
The Struggler 12m E3 6a**
1984
Cruel Summer 12m E2 5c***
1983
Climbed on a top rope in April 1982 and named "Wackford Squeers".
Colours Fly 12m E2 5c*
1983
On the Blocks 12m E3 6a*
1986
Marley's Ghost 12m E2 5c*
Ron Cowels, Martin Bennett April 1982
The North Face
Velvet Glove 15m E4 6a***
1984
The left hand crack
Slow Handclap E7 6c* 12m
Dave MacLeod - Jan 2004
This serious route takes the smooth, blank looking wall right of Iron Fist on the Sentinal Block. Move easily up to a good hold (poor skyhook runner if you are feeling optimistic). Climb the wall above direct on small sidepulls and edges with technical and sketchy moves to eventually gain good finishing holds near the top. FA headpoint style 04/01/2005. E7 6c, F7cish climbing.
Deathproof 12m E5
Michael Tweedley, Graham Doig. March 2009
Climb wall right of slow hand clap. Using hairline crack and Arete. Finishes up the final section of Methods of Dance. Good wee addition. Grade for an onsight as I cleaned and shunted the moves.
The Iron Fist 15m E5 6b***
1984
The right hand crack, which takes the middle of the wall.
The West Face
Methods of Dance 12m E3 6a**
1983
New Gold Dream 12m E2 5b*
Ron Cowels, Martin Bennett April 1982
Originally named "Fagin"
The Gellet
Decent is down a set of stone steps on the north face of the block.
The West Face
(A)Slots 10m E1 5c
1985
The short thin slotted cracks at the left end of the face.
(B) Sunsetter 10m HVS 5a*
1985
The next crack line across, finishing up either of the two upper cracks.
Forbidden Colours 10m HVS 5a**
1985
the crack starting halfway up the face has a crimpy start, stepping left at the top to the wider crack when possible.
- Direct Finish E1 5c*
The direct finish continues straight on up rather than stepping left to the wide crack.
(C) DT's 10m VS 4c**
1985
The left hand of the two large cracks. 2 poor eliminates have been recorded by finishing direct up the upper left hand crack or starting direct below the upper right, both at HVS 5a.
D-Day 10m HVS 5a*
1985
Thin crack and wall betwen the two big cracks.
(D)White Ensign 10m VS 4c**
1985
The obvious widening jamming crack takes gear aplenty
VE Day 10m E1 5c*
1985
A boulder problem start on small holds leads to a romp to the top
Neutral Gear 10m VS 4c*
1985
The right hand arete on its left side
The South Face
Lion Rampant 10m VS 4b*
Left arete on its right side
Wall Straight 10m E1 5b*
2m right of the arete, through the left edge of the scoop to a flake crack.
Protectless 12m E1 5a
1985
shallow scoop left of red flag, leading into red flag where it steps left to finish
Red Flag 12m HS 4c*
1985
The obivous corner crack, stepping left at the top to avoid the overhang
Grasp the Nettle 15m E2 5b*
1985
Straight up the wall on crimps past 2 pegs
Edge of Fear 15m E3 5c
1985
The Right arete,
Muffintop Blues 15m E3 5c
Craig Adam, Phil Ebert (Both led) - 15/06/06
Climbs the arete right of Grasp the Nettle. Start as for Edge of Fear - where this route moves round the arete continue straight up to a rest and gear below a small overlap. Step left and tackle the bulge, making fingery moves right to the obvious hole. Continue straight up the arete boldly but more easily and over a final bulge to finish.
Dead Ringer 15m E1 5b*
1985
start up two ringer the smaller ledge before stepping left onto the face, climb the right hand crack past the right of both rings
Two Ringer 15m VS 4c
1985
the left hand corner crack
One Ringer 15m HS 4a
1985
The right hand corner crack
Link Rib 15m Severe 3c
1985
The stepped rib on the right end of this face, gained from its left side.
Bold.
The East Face
(A) The Charleston 15m E5 6b**
M Hamilton and R Anderson. 1985
(B) The Ivy League 15m E4 6a
D McCallum. 1985
(C) Elgin's Crack 15m E2 5c***
A Petit and R Cowels. 1984
The obvious crackline
The Sting 15m E2 5b
D Moffat and I Todd. 1985
Traverse
Rock Around the Block 75m E3
1985
A girdle traverse starting on the West face.
- 5a. Starting belay on a ledge at the left edge of the west face.
- 5c.
- 5c.
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