The Lost Valley, part of the Bidean nam Bian Massif, is a scenic hanging valley in Glen Coe. It has a great potential for bouldering, with a Magic Wood ambience and a boulder-choked gorge.

The bouldering is 40mins from the car park. Avoid going when it's too busy as people will ask you what your bouldering mat is for! The best stuff is between the crossing-point in the gorge and the Pyramid Boulder in the Lost Valley itself. The rock quality varies from exceptional, as on the Leaning Block, through to choss. Some of the boulders are huge, but many require a good bit of brushing. Bouldering is possible all year round, but best after a dry spell.

Problems

Described from the large Pyramid Boulder.

The Leaning Block

The best block for guaranteed bouldering. From the Pyramid Boulder, go downstream for 50m and it's on your right.
1. The Bulge Font 7a *
S/S The left arete.
2. Helipad Font 6c **
The centre of the wall has a good crimp. Take this with the right hand and jump to another crimp up and left, then the slopey ramp. S/S is an excellent Font 7B/+?
3. Diesel Canary Font 6c+ ***
Take the crimp with the left hand and go directly to the slopey ramp. S/S is again excellent at around Font 7B/+.

Grass is Green Block

West of the Pyramid Boulder is an angular boulder, just above the turf.
1. Grass is Greener Font 7C *
S/S. The back of this boulder has a cleaned wall and a line of small crimps to climb on.

Raptor Block

A bit further down from the leaning block there is a big jumble of boulders to the right. To the left there is a smaller boulder above a grassy landing.
1. Raptorex Font 7A *
S/S. The riverside grooved arete. Start on a two-handed side pull and use crimps and more side pulls to the top.

Further down there is a massive boulder with a 10m overhanging arete... The side of this boulder has a shorter line of crimps on a 45degree wall which has been partially brushed. Further down there's more to do/explore. There is a crazy roof with 2 holds which could make a good problem???

Crossing Boulder

At the crossing point there's a large boulder.
1.Black Slab Font 4
The highball slab above the gravel is made more exciting by climbing barefoot after paddling arcoss the river.