Malc and the lads burn it up in Switzerland

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As a followup to to my hastily removed news item from last week we now have the word straight from the horses mouth.

Malcolm Smith has managed to climb Dreamtime 8C at Cresciano. A few years back Malc did the standing start but felt compelled to return to do the sitting start version first climbed by Fred Nicole. To add fuel to the already raging grade debate Malc has proposed a grade of 8B+. This is on top of the word on the net is that the holds have now been altered.

Malc's response to this on our forums was as follows: "With regard to this easier Dreamtime smokescreen. I have tried Dreamtime on a number of occasions since its first ascent and I have not noticed a marked difference in either the standard or quality of the problem. If holds have changed marginally over the passage of time then this must be a very subtle change indeed. It may be that any change is being slightly over-played. Us downgrading Brits should show more respect I guess. There are certainly no chissel marks! If it has changed significantly (debatable) then it may have gone from middle 8B+ to soft 8B+." Malc was on a trip to both Cresciano and the nearby Chironico with Andy Earl and Gareth Parry. Dave MacLeod also made an appearance on the trip.

Here are the ticklists.

Malc:

  • Dreamtime 8C or 8B+ (depending on country)
  • Mythril 8B
  • La Rondeur 8A+
  • La Sacoupe 8B "The story is that I flashed it after Dave showed me what he thought was the start. Later the same day, after dave left, I was told *the true lower start and did it again first go. Technically not a flash but a grade or two harder."
  • 5 8As (one at Chironico flashed)
  • 7C+ flash

Andy:

  • Several 8As and La Rondeur 8A+
  • Multiple 7C flashes
  • 2 7C+ flashes
  • 7C first ascent

Gareth:

  • Several 8As and La Rondeur 8A+
  • Multiple 7C flashes
  • 7C+ flash
  • 7B+ first ascent

Dave:

  • Serre Moi Fort 8A+
  • Le Pilier 7C Flash
  • Les Doigts Verts 8A
  • La Soucoupe (from the higher start explained above)
  • un-named 8A+
  • un-named 8A
  • un-named 7C+ flash
  • Rah Plats Plats Font 8A

Mike Lauder (19-02-2004)

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