Mellon Cliffs (Leacon Donna)

From ScottishClimbs

Jump to: navigation, search
Another nice evening

Easily accessible short sandstone sea cliffs on the Rubha Mor peninsular, which get the sun from the afternoon onwards. Many routes are suitable for soloing or bouldering and a pad is useful for the hard rocky landings (although it can't protect you from the wee lochan). Semi tidal at either end with the central section above water in all but the stormiest conditions. You may find the shooting club here on Saturday afternoons.

Contents

Directions & Approach

Grid Ref: NG 838923

Head through Mellon Charles to the end of the road.

Approach

Go through the gate at the end of the road, towards the sewage works. Take the track heading left to some military remains. Head down and traverse rightwards to reach the right end of the crag, or head right over the fence to reach the descent for the left hand side.

Routes

Described from left to right.

Evening Aroma Area

Evening Aroma Area Topo

Finale 4c
Steep problem up the thin fin.

Evening Corner 8m VD
The left hand corner is better than it looks.

Evening Aroma 10m S 4a
Good climbing up the centre of the slab to twin jamming cracks above.

Evening Arete 10m D

Descent Slab 7m VD
The centre of the slab to the right of the descent, has a steep start.

Descent Arete 7m S 4c
A decent bouldery start leads to far easier climbing above.

Left Wall

Left Wall Topo

Surf's Out 5m S
Steep and juggy fun.

Surf Direct 5m VS 5a/5b
Tough eliminate - keep right of rightmost black streak.

Aquanox 5m E1 5b


Main Wall

Main Wall Topo

Flotsam 5m S
Stay out of the corner.

Jetsam 6m S
Stay in the corner.

Neptune's Ladder 7m E2 5b
A more sustained route on good clean rock.

Rungs Missing 7m VS 5a
Tricky first moves up the crack, but luckily the water channel is too narrow to be a real threat.

Drunken Sailor 7m VD


Wee Lochan

Topo of Wee Lochan Area

Meloncholy 6m HVS 5b

Mileage 5m VS 5a
Tricky topout above a damp landing.

Witz 4m HS 4c
This short route is an obvious solo - but falling off would be unthinkable.

The Meadow

A patch of long grass makes this a pleasant spot on a sunny day, also acting as a soft landing for bouldering out the start of the routes.

The Meadow Topo

MC's Chicken 7m E2 5b
Strenuous but short-lived.

Mother Carey 7m E3 5c

Melodrama 6m HVS 5b

Squid Area

Topo of Squid Area

Foam 7m VD
Steep and juggy to begin, good rock and gear throughout.

Squid Direct 8m S
A steeper and harder start to Squid.

Squid 8m S
Mantle onto the ramp before tackling the corner.

Far Right

Topo of the Far Right Sector

Fishnet 8m HVS 5b
Fingery climbing up the thin crack before juggy moves to turn the roof on the right.

Cockle Chimney 8m VD
Better than it looks.

Barnacle 8m HS
The right wall of the corner is tricky at the beginning.

Shark's Fin 8m HS
Fun moves over the prominent fin.

Winkles 8m VD
Pleasant climbing using cracks on the right.

A number of boulder problems can be worked out as the crag tails off to the right.

First Ascent Info

Climber on Fishnet HVS 5b (Far Right Sector)
Date Route(s) Climber(s)
Sep 1998 Surf's Out, Flotsam, Jetsam, Drunken Sailor, Squid, Shark's Fin J and M Buchanan
Sep 1998 Aquanox, Neptune's Ladder, MC's Chicken, Mother Carey, Barnacle P Tattersall and A Katzenmeier
May 2003 Meloncholy, Melodrama N McAdie
Jun 2003 Mileage, Witz P Tattersall
Sep 2004 Surf Direct, Rungs Missing, Fishnet P Tattersall
Jul 2009 Winkles A James and C Brown
Jan 2010 Foam A James and C Brown
May 2010 Evening Corner, Evening Aroma, Evening Arete, Descent Slab, Descent Arete C Brown and A James
May 2010 Finale A James and C Brown
Sep 2010 Cockle Chimney A James


You are here: Scotland > Northern Highlands > Rubha Mor > Mellon Cliffs (Leacon Donna)
Personal tools