Miracle Wall

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Miracle Wall started as a toprope venue which was bolted because the routes are great. Combined with a bouldering trip to Glen Massan, this crag would make for a good day. This is especially true if you're climbing in the lower to middle grades.

The 10 metre overhanging mica-schist crag is a perfect gem: good rock, good routes and a excellent outlook over Loch Ech. It has superb Heuco style pockets on Holyman and has a slab at the top of the crag, which in all cases is the crux for your head as the last bolt on every route is just below the slab and out of sight. Falls from this point are scary but very safe.



From Arrochar village head for Dunoon. Once at Loch Ech keep looking on the left side for a really obvious stone dyke wall. Park in lay-by (right after a sharp-ish left hand bend) before this and follow the guide to the crag. If arriving from the Dunoon side, drive to Loch Eck and pass a pub on the right, The Coylet. Keep going along the loch and on right you will reach the stone dyke wall. If the parking space is full another space can be found before the stone dyke wall. Once parked look on the opposite side of the loch and you will see a hut on the lochside, if you have a map the hut is situated at a wee place called Bernice. Once the hut is spotted follow the guide and get ready to get pumped on this deceptive little gem. Hitch-hiking is easy around these parts and due to the 20 second walk-in, it's a great crag to get to without a car.

The Routes


Described from left to right.

Unnamed 10m E4 6a
M. Tweedley
Climb the thin crack on the left side of the wall.

1. Angels With Dirty Faces 10m F7b/+ ***
FA Dave Redpath (1998)
Climb up to crack, go right and climb up on quartz pockets to exit onto the slab, heading right for the lower off.

Unclimbed 10m
FA Unclimbed
This would have been another great little line, but has been left unclimbed and unbolted because a couple of the holds have been senslessly 'improved' by an unknown local.

2. Holyman 10m F6C ***
FA Michael Tweedley (1998)
Excellent pumpy climbing up Heuco style pockets, where weird moves lead you to the slab and lower off.

3. Bible Babble 10m F6C *
FA Mark Somerville (1998)
Cimb wall to gain a weird and powerfull move then climb up to the lower off. Dont be put of by a mad runout, the climbing is very steady.

4. Harrymonk 10m VS 4B
FA Michael Tweedley (1998)

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