Moy Rock

Moy Rock is a conglomerate south facing crag, north of Inverness. Currently there are a number of trad routes for those with a death wish and 16 sport routes that have been fully equiped and climbed. In the area that has been developed, the nature of the rock and the lack of any protection lends itself well to an ideal sport climbing venue. There is also potential for bouldering on the crag and some boulders below with the traverses recorded in the SMC Guides which also have the trad routes.

Directions & Approach

From the Maryburgh roundabout take the Ullapool road (A835) and drive about 3 miles westward looking out for a forest entrance with a footpath signpost on the righthand side of the road. Car parking is limited to 2 or 3 cars beside gate. WARNING- Please be very careful when pulling out from the parking due to fast overtaking vehicles on the main road.

Go round the gate and up the track for a few metres, turn left and then immediately right up the steep logging track which angles left through the recently felled area. At the very end of the logging track there is a good low angle approach path that is much better for reducing erosion than the old path. The Big Flat Wall is to your left and the Oak Tree Area to your right.

Access

Access Restrictions - Check MCofS website for information.

BIRDS Please check if there is any restrictions in place for this season before climbing.

• Ravens now breed at the crag, this year to the left of the Little Teaser (2011)Currently climbing on the main routes doesn't appear to be a problem. Barn Owls also breed in the big chimney above Constant Flux.

Routes

Routes are described from left to right

Holly Tree Groove (18m) 6a
15m left of The Herring is a steep wall with a huge flake at its base and a large holly growing out of the wall behind the flake. The route climbs a shallow groove in the wall just right of the holly. Start by scrambling up the chimney behind the flake to belay off the holly and a bolt. More technical than the usual strenuous pulling. Might be worth 2 stars. Sandy Allan, Andy Nisbet 22/Nov/2011

Conglomarete (25m) 4+
Climbs the right arete of the Holly Tree Wall, and sometimes on the wall to its right. The start is the crux, best climbed direct but easier on the right. Sandy Allan, Andy Nisbet 22/Nov/2011

Herring Wall

The Herring (15m) 6c+*
Good climbing, with a tricky bulge.

Fighting Off the Vultures (20m) 6a+
Climbs bolted line just left of Old Man of Moy to chain just under roof. 10 clips required. The first two bolts are bit spaced but fortunately as your arms tire the spacing becomes more amenable. A lot longer than the other routes alongside and it does seem to go on forever despite being just over 20 metres! Bolted by Andy Wilby Tess Fryer 01/Nov/2011

The Old Man of Moy (18m) 6a+
Left of Corvus is a wall right of another loose corner. Four bolt lines on the wall second on the left. Good climbing. Andy Nisbet Jul/2011

Moy Bueno (14m) 6b
The line on the wall left of Pebbledash. Slight crux at bulge just before chain. 6 clips bolted by Andy Wilby Jul/2011

Pebbledash (20m) 6b
The rib left of Corvus needs 11 quick-draws. The bolts are an older thicker type. A separate lower-off left of that on Corvus. Sustained, originally graded 6a+ now suggested at 6b although time will tell. Andy Nisbet 24/Oct/2011

Corvus (22m) 5+
The rib left of Corvus needs 11 quick-draws. The bolts are an older thicker type. A separate lower-off left of that on Corvus. Sustained, originally graded 6a+ now suggested at 6b although time will tell. Andy Nisbet 24/Oct/2011

Scoopy Doo (20m) 6a+
Climbs hanging groove right of Corvus. Originally called Moy Bridge

Ravens Wall

Ravens Nest (25m) 6a+
Leaves seventh bolt of Black Streak and goes left up to a seperate chain above overlap. 12 clips to chain. Ray Wilby Aug/2011

Black Streak (25m) 6a+
Located to the right of Raven's nest corner up wall. Climbs easy corner to ledge where the wall steepens up. Quite fingery 6a which goes with steady climbing. 12 clips. Ray Wilby Jul/2011

Pyramid (25m) 6a+
Takes line right of Black Streak leaving fifth bolt diagonally up and right. 12 clips. Ray Wilby Aug/2011

Teaser Wall

From left to right, the six routes on the big wall area are;

Match if you are Weak (20m) 6c+*
Starts up above access knotted rope and gives very sustained climbing all the way to the chain. Don’t think you can claim a higher grade if you avoid using the knotted rope.

The Dark Side (20m) 6c**
Good climbing with a sting in the tail.

Little Teaser (20m) 6b+**
The easiest route on the wall is all very reasonable until the final few moves.

Pulling on Pebbles (20m) 7a+*
Powerful middle section.

The Ticks Ate All the Midges (25m) 7a***
The longest and best route on the wall.

Cloak and Dagger (25m) 6c+**
Another monster pitch that pulls over a roof near the top.

Pudding Chimmney (30m) Mild Severe
Climbed in big boots at time but not recorded. Is called Slanting Crack in guide book. Graeme N Hunter, QT Chrichton Feb/1968

Seer Wall

Further down and right, about 10m

Warning (May 2010) Nesting barn Owls avoid these two route until end of July

One Man Went to Moy (10m) 7a
The lovely pale groove line to the left of Burning Barrels. Thin and fingery. After passing the bulge climb the right edge of the groove. (Has had a few ascents now and grade appears to be settling at 7a but nobody has been putting their opinions onto UKClimb yet!- Lone Rider) N.Shepherd 27/Aug/2011

Burning Barrels (10m) 6c
The slightly bulging line up the grey rock to the left of The Seer. N.Shepherd 27/Aug/2011

The Seer (12m) 7b**
The first route encountered on arrival at the crag. The steep slab on the left has a hard crux followed by sustained moves to the chain. There are two extensions to this route if you haven’t had enough. The left-hand extension is 6c and the right-hand one is still a project.

The Fear (?) 7b+
Continues up the right hand line of severly overhanging bolts to chain from the anchor of The Seer. Maybe 7c Alan Cassidy 25/Mar/2012

Constant Flux (15m) 6c+*
This teeters up the slab on the right, then cranks through two steep bulges.

Slabs

Right again from the Nesting Zone is cirque of walls around a rambling oak tree.

Where the path comes up to the crag next to a tree is an area of easier routes. These go from left to right are very well bolted and have double bolt chained lower offs. Some have locking krabs on the lower off - please leave these in place.

Easy Slab (20m) 4+*

Nice route up a slab

Ankle Biters Delight (24m) 4+
Start 1m right of Easy Slab with a dyno for a large pocket. Follow the right hand edge of the slab ending at the same belay as Easy Slab, 9 bolts.

Ephemeral Artery (27m) 4+
Start at the base of the next slab to the right of Ankle Biters Delight. Climb up to the first bolt, (crux), and follow the left hand edge of the slab to the chain at the top, 9 bolts.

Venus Return (23m) 5-
This route shares the same start as Ephemeral Artery, and the first bolt, before branching rightwards and ending at the same belay, 9 bolts.

Pebble Walls

Moy Soldiers (15m) 5+ Takes line on left side of arete to finish as for Pebble Party

Pebble Party (15m) 5*
Steep start going to a good ledge/rest then finished by a crack on the right of a steep wall
Probably 5+

L Plate (15m) 5 Climbs up flaky groove just right of and finishing at Pebble Party

The Fly (15m) 6a**
Vertical route up a wall sustained after first 4 meters
Most would consider it 6a+

Magnificrack 50m E3 5b
John Mackenzie with Richard McHardy + Mike Birch. 1978
Climbs the obvious flake/ crack right of the Fly. 60m ropes required to reach a decent belay at the top. Climb rightwards along easy ramp from base of the Fly to gain the crack, follow this steeply and boldly until it eases and fades, from its top traverse rightwards past a tottering block to an easier exit. The original ascent went up the top overlap on the left above the flake crack, so there are two possible exits. Poorly protected in several places, but lots of gear. Rock not too bad and more than happy if the climb was bolted to allow a safer ascent as it would then give the best and longest 'easier' route on the crag.

Forbidden Wall

Clansmen Wall Traverse (?) V5 6b
Traverse of the Clansmen wall originally right to left taking in pocket near 2 bolt of Clansman. May have altered since the creation of the bolted routes. looks obvious to start from left to right. Above grade is just a guess so if someone can come up with a more accurate I will change John Mackenzie 1980

The Silver Fox (25m) 6c+*
The wall just left of The Clansman, starting up the dirty ramp. Very sustained climbing.

The Clansman (30m) 7a+**
Boulder problem start to a ledge, then totally sustained climbing to a steep finish. Clipping the chain is the crux!

The bottom wall of the above route is a good boudering traverse about Brit 6b

Round the Bend (29m) 6a
Climbs ramp to arete right of Clansmen pull up and round to bolted line left of Hidden World. Andy Nisbet 16/Apr/2012

Hidden World (32m) 6a+
Start 6m to the right of the Clansman at the foot of a slightly white streak coming down from a gap in the small overhang above. Climb to the gap in the overhang, pull through to the wall above. Continue up into left facing corner and up to belay. You may have to come down to double bolts lower down if your rope isn't long enough. If you lower off from top chain you may not make it back to the ground if your rope is slightly short of 60m. If it is then bring your belayer up and both abseil down to the fifth bolt runner, (just above the overhang), where there is a second bolt, (both equipped with maillons), to act as an intermediate belay/lower off point. Gary Kinsey & Martin Hind 29/Mar/2012

Flaky Start to Hidden World (32m) 5+
Takes a diagonal line from the right to join Hidden World at break in the roof. Gary Kinsey and James Edwards 08/Apr/2012

Forbidden Forest (12m) 7a
Steady wall climbing to a good hold below the bulge leads to some strenuous moves through the bulge, then steady away to the top. Grade and rock still to settle down. Situated in the trees right of Hidden World and left of 'It's rock Jim, but not as we know it'. Andy Wilby 11/Feb/2012

It's Rock Jim But Not As We Know It (12m) 6c+
Starts to the right of Forbidden Forest, middle line up the wall and bulge. Steady climbing up the wall to the bulge. Strenuous moves up and rightwards to gain a good hold. Long move back left to a good hole in the middle of wall then sustained climbing to the top. Sue Wood 09/Mar/2012

Collywobbles (?) 7a
Climb the green wall to the right of 'It's rock Jim' and trend left under the bulge to join 'It's rock Jim' at the 4th bolt and continue on up. A harder start to 'It's rock Jim' Sue Wood 22/Mar/2012

Roadside Boulder

East Side Story - R to L Traverse (8m) V3
Boulder just east of access gate has two steep faces. One overhanging on the West side and a less steep one on the east side have been cleaned. East side traverse - Step of the base of the conifer tree onto the wall and traverse left to the Sycamore tree. higher being easier. Potential for a lower traverse. Stays dry. Potential for other problems on both sides. Lone Rider 27/Sep/2011

Hopefully more routes will be bolted in the near future and more information will be available soon.