Myopics Buttress
From ScottishClimbs
Myopics Buttress can be found above the road on the north end of Craig Barns at Dunkeld. The crag offers steep sport climbing with a roof a mid height.
Access
The crag has a chequered past being the scene of frequent debolting for reasons unknown. This is rummored to be because of climbers blocking the gate to the Atholl estate (?), so don't block the gate!
Routes
Routes are described left to right.
??? VS 4c/ E1 ?
The steep crack to the right of the tree.
Project
The line of bolts right of the crack.
The Chopping Block 15m 7b *
Neil Shepherd (1996)
Tackles the roof directly after an easy start, finishing up the Vibes.
The Vibes 15m 7c **
Ian Cropley (1991)
Starting left of the arete move upward on pockets and undercuts to a resting jug. Move left into the roof (knee bar useful) with difficulty on small holds (hard clip) to better holds on the lip and above.
Granola Head 15m 7c *
Duncan McCallum (1990)
Move steeply upwards to a resting spot before the final roof.
Nameless 10m 6c+
unknown (1996)
This route starts from the ledge on the right.
