Neilston Quarry

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Neilston.jpg

Contents

Directions & Approach

When leaving the train at Neilston Station do not cross the bridge, walk up the ramp to the road and turn right. The crag is easily visible from this road after a 15 minute walk and is on the left side of the road. You pass a water plant located on the right side of the road about half way to the crag.

Amenities

Chip shop and Newsagents on main drag, assorted social clubs for a drink if your old!

Left Buttress

Left Buttress topography

Good for warming up or soloing on sunny evenings. None of these routes are ever very serious.

Right Angled Corner, 10m, Diff

Corner & Groove, 10m, Diff

Flake Route, 10m, V.Diff

Pinkerton's Corner, 10m, Severe
Scale the large boulder following a slab on the left or a crack route to the right. After a brief rest, follow a slightly more technical climb following the corner with huge jugs to the left and small holds on the right face for hands and feet. An excellent introductory lead.

Corner Arete, 10m, Severe
Climb the face to the left of the arete. Following the fingery rightmost fault line. Avoid the temptation to use the ledge from Pinkerton's Corner! Toughest route of the left buttress.

Kristeen's Crack, 10m, V.Diff
Pleasant crack with plenty of protection in the wall opposing Polish Direct.

Polish Direct, 4m, Hard Severe
Begin the technical slab from the bottom left passing a useful slot prior to the crux section which finishes on the top right. Feels more like a bouldering problem.

Right Buttress

Right buttress topography
Right buttress topography

More consistent rock and better routes, 4-5m right of Polish Direct.

Juggy Crack, 10m, V.Diff

Eliminate Arete, 8m, (E3/4)? Highball Font 6b?

Strawberry Direct 10m E2 6a *
Alan McDonald - May 2004
Steep and Dynamic the left wall of Strawberry Crack can be climbed Direct.

Strawberry Crack, 10m, Severe

Spiney Boulder, 10m, V.Diff

Easy Gully, 10m, Diff

B.N.I., 10m, Severe

Broken Arete, 10m, V.Diff

Y-Crack, 10m, V.Diff

Stephen Slab, 10m, Hard Severe

Crack Corner, 10m, V.Diff

Polish Hangover, 10m, V.S.

Polish Hangover Direct Finish 15 VS 4b *
K Brookman, Steve Wright, Mike Dunn - 20/03/2005
Climb Polish Hangover (VS 4b) and when that route ends at the junction with Intrusion Line (VDiff) move out onto the arete (to the left of Punk Rock) and using good features for the hands climb the face. Before leaving Intrusion Line place a good nut as there is no more gear until the top.

Intrusion Line, 10m, V.Diff
About Severe if finished up the arete.

Punk Rock, 15m, HVS 5a **

Curving Crack, 15m, HVS 5a *

Twisted 12m E3 5c **
Alan McDonald, Paul McDonald - May 2004
The twisting wall right of Curving Crack is climbed to gear at half height. Slopers and side pulls take you over the tiered overhang to belay!

Willies Route, 15m, Severe

Variation 1, 15m, E2
Climb the slab direct and finish high in the groove of willies route.

Variation 2, 15m, E2/3
As above only finish by climbing directly up the arete left of Fornication.

Fornication, 15m, VS

Hyper-Reality, 15m, VS

Grassy Crack, 15m, Severe

Jig-Saw Jive, 10m, V.Diff

Whitehorse Rib, 15m, Severe

Grot-Gully, 10m, Mod

Peg-Leg, 2m, Font5

New Routes/Variations

Neilston Topo (wiki).JPG



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