Neist Point

Facial Sector

This section of short buttresses with easy routes is a two minute walk from the car, south facing and sheltered, thus a good choice for a lazy afternoon’s cragging. Reasonably family friendly as it’s not a sea cliff,although there are some loose blocks.

Getting there

Park at the public car park at the top of the hill (GR132478). The climbs are next to the concrete steps leading down to the lighthouse. Please observe the sign requesting visitors to avoid the winch house and walk around it after topping out.

The routes

Climbs are described from right to left facing the crag, buttress 1 being the one closest to the car.

Buttress 1

Hard Faced, Softened 7m Vdiff 4b
J Hunter - 13th May 2006
Climb up RH edge of large slab to gain a ledge to the right of the large boulder, trend right around the small arête and easily finish.

Buttress 2

Pie Face 6m Mod
N Seal - 13th May 2006.
Starts where path turns a sharp corner. Gain first block using a ramp . Centrally up the easy angled slab on good holds.

Buttress 3

An unclimbed but attractive clean slab with a nasty top out.

Buttress 4

Directly below the winch support pole.

Buttress 5

Bum Face 10m S 4b
N. Seal - 13th May 2006
Climb the right, right trending crack on the front of the buttress. Trend L on a small ledge to a large heathery ledge. Ascend the cleft of the bum-like feature at the top, avoiding a dubious chockstone. Enjoyable.

Butress 6

More loose rambling blocks

Buttress 7

Kerplunk Face 9m Diff
N Seal - 14th May 2006
Wobble up the front of the stack of loose blocks. Heathery scramble off.