Orchestra Cave

Impressive 30m high cave. Overhangs by almost 20m! Mainly schist but has weird granite blobs that look like stuck on volumes.

Nesting birds prevent climbing during summer months.

Directions & Approach

The cave is situated immediately south of Bogglesheugh at Findon. Between Aberdeen and Portlethen See N.E Outcrops guide for more info.

Descend by VD chimney scramble at low tide (to the south) off belay blocks. Or abseil directly over the cave down line of route to large non-tidal ledges (belay bolts on the lip). Top few bolts can be clipped on ab to keep you in if the sea is rough.

Andy Latta on Basson F7a+.

Climbing

???
Short route on the left wall of the cave.

Basson 25m 7a+ *
Left most line of bolts up the steepest part of the cave. Move up the steep groove to a rest on the left then through the roof above.

Double Basson 35m 7c *
Tim Rankin 2009
Extension to previous line to the top of the cave!

Crescendo 12m 8a+ *
Thin moves up to a LO under the roof.

Air on a G string 12m 7c/+ *
Short steep line left of Dangelberries. A hard start leads to the big niche (knee bar) before heading up and left to a final punishing rockover to finish under the roof.

???? F8a
Tim Rankin 2011
Extension to previous route through the roofs finishing at the Dangleberries mid LO.

Dangleberries 30m 8a+***
Ally Coull 2008
Takes the central line through the full height of the cave. After a tricky 1st roof tackle the 45deg wall, then pull through another large roof to a no-hands rest (double knee bar). Follow the vague groove above and pull through the final roof rightwards (crux) to the lower off. Brilliant pumpy climbing leading to a bouldery crux. Bailing out at the double bolt lower off at 20m provides an excellent 7c+.

Blobstrop 20m 8a ***
Ally Coull 2009
The steep line to the right of Dangleberries. Steep climbing on good holds leads to a hard crux. Finishes over the final large roof on a ledge (no LO).

Closed Project
Left arete of large groove.

Closed Project
Right arete of large groove.

Bittersweet Syphony 7b+
The granite wall on the right of the cave.