Red Wall Quarry

From ScottishClimbs

Jump to: navigation, search

Overhanging quarry face with a small selection of difficult sport routes. It lies close to the Red Wall traditional cliff.



From Aberdeen take the A90 to Peterhead. After Longhaven village 8 miles before Peterhead turn off the A90 onto a track. Follow the track to a small car park by a cottage. Follow a path by the cottage east then south to the first quarry works. Go right to a fence then pick up another path that leads to the headland of the Red Wall. Continue on this path untill it turns south along the rim of the Red Quarry.


Back Wall

Smaller section of wall starting from a raised platform.

Jester 10m 7b
Tim Rankin 2008
The lefthand line climbing crack and flakes.

Messiah 12m 7c+
Tim Rankin 2008
The next thin crack to the right with resin bolts.

Main Wall

The Messing Link 18m 8a
Ally Coull 2010
Good link up climbing Messiah to the 4th bolt then moving up right to join and finish as for The King.

The King 18m 7c+
Tim Rankin 2008
Central line weaving up flakes and edges to a heart breaking crux at the top. Take a rag for the seeping hold near the start.

Dracula 22m 8b
Gordon Lennox 2009
Make a desperate long move off a small crimp to reach thin flakes before move right into the next route.

Lucifer 20m 8b
Tim Rankin 2009
The blank wall to the undercut break. Continue up the fine sustained upper wall and groove.

Ally Coull
The hanging arete.

Sultan 12m 7c
Tim Rankin 2009
The blank looking wall just left of right bounding corner (E1 5c). Increasingly smaller holds lead to a stopper move near the top.

Personal tools