Reiff in the Woods

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Reiff in the Woods is a magical collection of excellent sandstone boulders hidden amongst trees. Legend has it they were washed up by a really high tide. Very sheltered, avoid during the midge season unless it's very windy. From the Scooped Wall the outlook over Loch Bad a' Ghaill is fantastic. North, South and West facing

Contents

Directions & Approach

Grid Ref: NC 092095

30 seconds from the road!

The boulders are on the south side of the road to Reiff 2km past the Stac Pollaidh car park. Post Crag, which has some good easy problems, is obvious on the north side of the road. Park carefully on the bend, then continue a short way along the road until the boulders can be seen in the trees to the left. Best to leave a trail of breadcrumbs to find your way back out.

The problems

The Cubes

These are the square-cut boulders nearest to the road. The first problem lies in the first 'square-cut' slot encountered on the approach. From here the problems are described anti-clockwise.

1. Haven V5
A technical and fingery problem up the left side of the smooth vertical wall.

1a. Sparrow Legs Wall V5
Another crimping finger-ripper up the right side of the wall. No using the right arete.

2. Hedgetrimmer Crack V0
The obvious crack in the right wall of the second slot gives one for the trad climbers.

3. A Good Haircut VB
The wall just right of the arete.

4. V1
The tricky wall just left of the descent chimney.

5. The Pruner V2
Stretchy! Climb the centre of the narrow north-facing wall right of the chimney with long moves between good holds.

6. The Cubes Edge V2
The arete climbed on its left side.

7. The Cube V1
The west-facing wall climbed on its left side. Start pulling over a wee overhang.

8. See Saw V1
The thin crack up the right side of the wall.

9. Go For the Gap V3
The centre of the narrow south-facing wall gives a stretchy reach for the gap in the capping lip.

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The Scooped Wall Area - North Wall

Opposite Go For the Gap is a lichen-mottled wall with two diverging cracks. Described from left to right.

10. Ouch V3
The wall left of the flake crack. Short and very sharp.

11. More Trad Climbing V0
The flake crack has some nice moves.

12. Northwest Crack VB
The crack starting from just left of the step.

13. V0+
Start just right of the step. Go up and left to finish at the top of the crack.

14. Calamacriel V2
The vexing wall 2m left of the arete.

15. Shady Arete V0+
The arete climbed on its left side.

The Scooped Wall Area - The West Wall

Round the corner is an excellent wall of rough, clean rock.

16. Sunny Arete V0
The arete climbed on its right side.

17. Number One V0
The vague groove just right of the arete.

18. The Spike V1
Start 1m right. Gain a good spike in the break then finish on slopers. A doddle for the tall. Var. V4 SS The sitting start on poor holds.

19. The Stornaway Fairy V2
Start on a small flake 1m to the right. Climb straight up. Var. V3 SS The obvious sitting start from some crimps.

20. The Ullapool Run V2
The wall just right of the thin crack, starting from a broken flake.

21. Crevasse Rescue V1
Starting at a big horizontal flake, thug straight up the wall.

22. Barndoor V2
Layaway up the right arete. No bridging out rightwards.

23. V1
SS Climb the short wall right of a chimney.

24. The Scooped Wall Traverse V3
Start as for Barndoor and keep going left, with a tricky move to gain the spike hold. Continue round the arete to finish up More Trad Climbing. Var. The Final Countdown V7 When passing The Spike drop down using poor holds then follow a low break to finish up The Sunny Arete.

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The Scooped Wall Area - The Lower Wall

Below the Scooped Wall is a small chasm. Lower Wall is on the left as you descend. Described from left to right.

25. Underworld V1
Climb the middle of the short wall on disappointingly small slopers.

26. V1 SS
The right arete.

27. V0
A short wall right of the arete.

The Cave Boulder aka The Howf Boulder

This is the large boulder in front of The Cubes. The next two problems are in the small chasm opposite The Lower Wall.

28. The Rack V2
On the wall opposite Underworld climb the stretchy wall right of an undercut crack.

29. Cave Crack V2
The undercut crack gained from the right. A little high so no slapping about please.

29a. One Per Center V6
Lies on the short steep east face of the Cave Boulder. From a left hand side pull and a right hand undercut this one move puzzler aims to gain the lip.

The Wee Boulder

The small steep boulder between The Cubes and The Leaning Wall gives three intense problems.

30. Sporting Body, Sporting Mind, Beer and Cakes V3
SS Start on holds in the centre. Slap up and right then finish up the arete.

31. V3
SS Using the same starting holds climb straight up.

32. Short and Shlappy V2
SS A short problem on the left. Pull onto the slab.

The Leaning Wall

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The amazing steep wall with the unclimbed project of the area! This is now The Main Issue V8 Dyno from the central rail to the slopey top.

33. Avoiding the Main Issue V4
SS Right of the leaning wall, start with right hand on spiky pinch. Slap up left, pull over and finish up the ramp on the left.

34. Scot's Vee Ess V0
The steep corner left of the leaning wall.

35. V4
The wall just left of the corner with a worrying last move.

36. The Pokey Hat V3
The left arete finishing with a long move for the pokey hat. Var. V4 SS A slappy sitting start.

37. Huck Fin's Hammock V4
SS Follow the variation start to The Pokey Hat then traverse left along the break until a big move gains good holds. Finish straight up. A less than perfect landing, so two big mats and a spotter, please.

38. Pebble Beach V4
Start at the steep arete 4m left of The Pokey Hat. Pull round onto the left wall to an insecure finish. A sitting start needs doing by someone strong.

39. V0
The short wall just left of the step.

The next two problems lie on the slabby side.

40. Slab VB
Up the slab just left of centre.

41. V0
Up the slab 1m to the left.

Roadside Buttress

From the parking place continue along the road for about 50m past the main area. On the north side of the road is a small steep buttress hidden in the trees. Described from right to left.

42. V3
Climb the undercut nose nearest the road, starting with a left-hand jam under the roof.

43. The Crack V7
SS The leftwards-slanting crack on the right side of the buttress is harder than it looks. From a sitting start traverse into the crack, then up a groove to top-out via good holds.

44. Pebble Mill V6
SS To the left of the crack are two obvious slopey jugs. From a sitting start gain the jugs, then use a poor break and a variety of pebbles to lurch for the top.

The Patio Boulder

Across a small valley south of the parking place lies a prominent 15m square-cut buttress. The Patio Boulder is the large heather-capped block lying just below this. About 10minutes from the road. The Breathalyser V1 The obvious ascending rail on the west wall is awesome for the grade.

New problems

A Man in Ascent V4 SS*
Ian Taylor
On Roadside Buttress. Sitting start as for The Crack. Go straight up to big layaways, gain large flat hold, then scoot round to the right to finish.

Teewhuppo V4 ***
Ian Taylor
On the Patio Boulder. Start as for Breathalyser, make a move left, then climb straight up to finish. Highball on imaculate golden rock. Probably V3 but you might want a grade in hand!

The Hanging Crack V3
The usually wet hanging crack left of Hedgetrimmer crack.

Right Arete V2/3 SS
From a sitting start climb the arete right of Sporting Body..., pulling rightwards to finish.

Rasper V3/4 SS **
Ian Taylor
The burly arete right of Pebble Roulette from a sitting start.

Pebble Roulette V2
Ian Taylor
On the flat ground in front of the main area lies a split boulder known as Dell Boulder. This is just across the road from Roadside Buttress. This problem climbs the slab facing the road.

Highland Spring V3 *
Tess Fryer
Right of Go For The Gap is a wide crack. This slow drying problem goes up the arete and wall right of the crack

Clach-mheallain V6 SS **
Ian Taylor
The arete that Pebble Beach avoids. From an awkward sitting start follow the arete direct with a spicey last move.


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