Rosyth Quarry

Rosyth Quarry has a reputation more for its local population than its climbing. Mention Rosyth and someone else will mention airgun wielding neds. The quarry has also become a favorite haunt of the local motorbike enthusiasts. While the graffiti and rubbish and motorbike trails don't do much to dispell this reputation, Rosyth does have some redeeming features. A South facing aspect makes it a sun trap, with quick drying rock and little seepage. If you hit it when the local youths aren't in situ it can even be quite pleasant.

Rosyth is a Dolerite Quarry.

There are belay stakes at the top of some routes, due to the lack of natural belays. These are predominantly on the left hand side of the quarry, and cover routes upto "broken pillar". The left hand side is served by a selection of small trees (Don't use the gorse, it is loose and brittle)

Rosyth Quarry Grade Spread

The climbing here is varied, with a good spread of grades. The left hand side catches the sun and contains routes on the easier side of vertical, however beware of loose rock on the top outs. The right hand side is shaded by trees and as such is cooler, however it does keep the rain off, partly because of the trees and partly due to the slight overhang on many of the routes.

Unfortunately the trees mean that leaf litter on the top outs can be a problem, though the majority of the gorse from the immediate top outs of routes has been reduced recently.

Descent can be made via the route Wireworm (M), between "The Grinder" and "gift horse" or "Late night final(D)" or alternatively by following the path round to the left of the quarry.

Suggested routes are:

• Heathy
• Cathy
• The Waullie
• Broken Pillar
• Flakeoff
• The Beauty
• Plod
• Serendipity
• Tiger Pad

Directions & Approach

Directions

(GR 125 834) Streetmap

By train head to Inverkeithing station, this can also provide suitable parking for those driving.

Approach

Follow the path or car park road out onto the main road above the station, turn right and walk down the road and cross at the crossing. Follow the path to the right, taking the left hand fork at the roundabout and continuing down Admiralty road. You will pass some trees, a track on the left, a field and then reach another clump of trees - the access path to the quarry is through these - it is behind a large road sign.

Head up the path, and when it opens out again from the trees, take the wide track on the left up into the main quarry.

The routes are described from left to right around the quarry.

The Climbing

Routes are described from Left to Right.

Route to Root 10m VS 4c
1972
One for the dirt lover - Climb the corner at the far left of the quarry directly beneath the overhanging tree if you really must.

Grot Corner 10m Severe
1975 Better than it sounds. But only just! Climb the left slanting groove above the fire pit.

Skinny Lizzie 10m HVS 5a
1990
The Sharp arete right of grot corner, with runners and the occasional hold in that route

Chemical Warfare 10m Severe
1972
Nifty wee route rising from the block. Climb the groove.

Sickle 10m VDiff*
1972
Climb the open corner, about 6m right of the fire pit.

Wireworm 7m Mod
1972
Often used as a decent route, look for the dusty path leading over the edge.

Wireworm Direct 7m D

Climb the short layback crack to the large platform at the midpoint of wireworm, finishing up this route.

Smith's Dilemma 6m Diff*
1972
Climb the prominent curving groove, which widens as it rises.

Jack's Route 6m VDiff
1972
Climb the line which goes direct through the area of Quartz faced rock.

Legover Groove 6m VDiff
1972
Climb the bulging depression just right of the Quartz faced wall to easy ground above

STY Slab 6m Severe
1972
The centre of the face with STY daubed across it without the jugs in Andy's Route

Andy's Route 7m VDiff
1974
Start at a right facing wide crack 3 metres right of the Quartz faced wall.

Poison Dwarf 8m E1 5c
2006 The steep wall immediately right of Andys Route has a line of sidepulls leading to a thin flake crack. This gives a great wee bouldery eliminate climb.

Drizzle 8m Severe
1974 The steep groove immediately left of the smooth wall.

Philistine 8m E2 6a
1974 The blank looking wall with SCOTTY written in blue paint across the centre hides a hard route using old peg scars as mono pockets, use these to gain the horizontal break before trending left to the small niche and from there head directly up to finish. bring a bouldering mat for happier ankles.

The Waullie 10m HVS 5b*
1975

An enjoyable route with more protection than you can shake a stick at, it climbs the prominent flaking finger crack to the right of the Philistine Wall to the open horizontal break and undercling. From this head directly up to finish.

C.N.D 10m Severe*
1974
Up to the ledges to the right of the Waullie leading to the recessed hanging slab.

Gonnae No' Dae That S
2006 A trio of mantels up the wall between C.N.D. and Hands Off gains a sloping ledge. Move right and climb a wee inverted staircase forming a slim groove.

Hands Off 15m VS 4c
1975
Thin and difficult to protect well. Up the blunt rib and try to gain a standing position on the sloping ledge.

Forth Bridge 10m HVS 5a
Just right of Hands Off is a wide open groove that's often damp. Bridge up this till it steepens and narrows, where a tricky move lets you stand on a hanging block to the right. An undercling and a crack provide another couple of tricky moves onto easier ground.

You Jist Took That Too Far 10m E1 5b
Start 2M right of Hands Off at a blunt pillar topped by an overhanging block. Climb the crack on the left side of the pillar, onto the block. Regain the crack then a step up and a long reach right, across a sloping ledge, gains a a good wee hold. Pull on it to highstep and rockover onto the ledge.

Fog On The Forth 10m E1 5b
Climb directly up the front of the pillar, over the roof and onto the block, finish up the previous route.

Gumball 3000 10m HVS 5c
Climb easily up the cracks on the right side of the pillar onto the block. Gain the short L-facing arete directly above then use some inventive footwork to help layaway the arete. Gain a good hand ledge then jug hauling gains the top.

Suspect Device 15m E1 5b
2004'
Climb the crack line just left of Iconoclast, up to a right facing corner and small overhang. Rock is slightly (VERY!) Friable!

Iconoclast 15m HVS 5a*
1973'
Start just left of "TACK" painted on the rock. Up a groove to an obvious hold the up the small slab to easier climbing.

Shady Character 15m E1 5a*
Just right of Iconoclast climb a crack onto a ledge on the right. A precarious rockover leads to a suspicious layback crack then a short dubious wall.

Namad and Shamed 15m HS
Some people will climb anything for the sake of a new route. Starting just left of Grenville a few tricky moves lead into a chimney groove. This turns out to be more solid than it looks, giving easy bridging to a harder move through a small overhang. Finish with another couple of tricky moves over a concave overlap.

Heathy Buttress

The next routes are situated on the protruding buttress behind a pile of hawthorn branches/stumps. The buttress has the word HEATHY written on it at the base.

Grenville 15m VS 4b
1973
Takes the line just to the left of the buttress up the crack line between the looser, less stable rock on the left and the solid stuff of the buttress on the right. Keep left limbs on the left of the break and right on the right. Quite enjoyable but check left side holds for stability.

Life during wartime 15m E1 5b*
1973
An eliminate but excellent, boulder problem start between Grenville and Heathy gains a standing position on the bottom of a wee ramp. Follow the left arete of a steep slab onto a big ledge then climb up by the left side of a fin to gain a flat jug on the arete. A dyno/lunge gains a similiar hold directly above before moving up the right side of the rectangular overhang and finishing with a short flake crack. Good climbing, would have been worth two stars but for the ledge.

Heathy 15m VS 4c**
1972
Takes the crack line at the left hand end of the ledge at the base of the buttress, follow this to the ledge then head up the corner to the left of the inverted V groove of Cathy fame. Finish direct.

Cathy 15m VS 4c**
1972
Climb to the platform using the right hand cracks, then head up the tight V groove with an off width crack at the back of it. Consider it VS 5a especially for those with short arms.

Broken Pillar 15m HVS 5a*
1972
*** NEWS : Recent rock fall in the lower section of this climb - treat with caution!*** On the other side of the buttress to the previous 3 - look up to see an offwidth hanging crack just right of a platform on the buttress. There are 2 options to ascend this route:

• Arete start: This line takes the front face of the pillar to reach the ledge, and whilst quite bold is considerably more satisfying. start at the white arrow.
• Corner start:This line is somewhat easier and takes the corner to the right of the arete start. be aware of the loose block though.

Once the ledge is gained, use all your cunning to make your way up the crackline.

Unbroken Pillar 15m E3 6a
1972
Just left of Corpuscule there is a blunt pillar/arete. Climb this with blinkers (not using the ledges left or right of the pillar) but with side runners in the left-facing corner crack. Bold with crux at the top. Eliminate. A pointless lead but fun on top rope.

Fire in the Quarry 15m S
On the left of Corpuscle is a prominent groove system. Climb this into a bay where belays will be found to save walking way back to a tree

Corpuscle 15m E3 5c
1975

15m to the right of the Heathy buttress is a small inverted V groove with a roof in it at 4m. Climb up the left wall of this before transferring right above the roof to the blunt arete. Follow this line on small holds trending left to the top. dfficult 5c moves.

Tombstone Area

To find the next climbs, follow the quad bike tracks round the quarry until you see the tombstone - a 6ft free-standing slab in front of the main wall, just inside the tree cover.

These two climbs are found left of the tombstone - look for a flake approx 10m right with a borehole slanting up from it at approx 3m.

Ram Jam Corner 6m HVS 5a
1975
A series of tiered ledges in the v-groove to the left of the flake leads to the top of the pillar. Top out recently cleared of gorse. Use slings/rope around the pillar for belay point, though path to trees for flakeoff/changeling has been cleared.

Pogo Groove 6m VS 4c
1974
This takes the right hand V-groove by following the slightly offwidth finger crack. Use belay points mentioned above.

Flakeoff 6m VS 4c
1975
Just right of pogo groove is a series of cracks leading left past a large niche on the right. Climb the crack line including the niche to reach the top out.

Changeling 6m VS 4c
1975
2m to the right of Flakeoff, head up the series of ledges and niches past the V shaped wedge to a low ledge with overhanging gorse bush. exit straight out for true finish or scarper sideways if scared by the bush!

The Beauty 6m HVS 5a*
1976
Directly behind the tombstone is an arete with a pair of ledges on it. Reach the first with ease, then pause to ponder the second - left on the slab or right on the vertical - the choice is yours.

The Beast 6m VS 5a
1975
2m right of the beauty is a corner with a ledge at 4m on the right hand side. Gain this ledge and to finish continue up the crackline on the left.

The Grinder 6m HVS 4c
1975
Head up the delightfully off width crack directly behind the tombstone. the recess on the right hand side is OFF LIMITS! Finish direct.

A Cheeky Hook 6m E1 5a
2008 - D.H.Spencer
Begin 2m right of the grinder on small crimps, use layback edges to gain horizontal break followed by mantling into the recess. Again finish direct.

Gift Horse 7m VS 4b
1975
The left facing corner layback crack to a ledge to finish under the tree on big jugs.

Plod 7m HVS 5a
1986
Start up the think crack just right of the sharp flake/groove systems and hand traverse the break to reach the right of the two wide cracks without using the ledges. Stepping straight up the centre of the wall is significantly harder variation.

Gold Foil 7m VS 4c**
1972
The V-groove 15m right of the tombstone.

The Flying Bink 7m VS 4c
1976
Dirty stepped flake just right of Gold Foil.

If Pigs Could Fly 8m E2 5c**
1977
This route is immediately obvious on the left hand overhanging buttress, seeps significantly.

Briggy Pop 8m HVS 5b
G.Seggie, S.Burns. 11 September 2007
Start at the \"Briggy\" graffiti between If Pigs Could Fly and The Stinking Swordsman. Climb the obvious flake crack to pop rightwards to a juggy finish.

The Stinking Swordsman 8m E4 6b*
1973
Similar in looks to If Pigs Could Fly, this route heads up the right hand buttress, also suffers from seepage.

Fat Sam 7m VS 4c
1974
At the right hand end of the stinking swordsman buttress, climb the groove to reach a loose top out. Not worth the effort. also seeps considerably.

The Rust Bucket 7m E2 6a
1992
The right wall of the stinking swordsman buttress is a small wall - ascend this without using either the tree on the left or the rock rib on the right.

Free Love Area

These last climbs are found at the far right of the quarry. FREE LOVE is painted on the rock in white nearby

Late Night Final 8m Diff
1975
Head up the steps at the back of the flake to a small tree just below the top. Useful as a descent gully.

Jagdhond 10m HVS 5a
1985
Start just right of Late night final, with "FREE SEX HERE" written on the wall. head up the corner below the small roof before curving round into the niche to the left to reach the spike at shoulder level. at which point bridge right to the opposite corner and finish up to the platform. top out direct.

Serendipity 10m VS 4c*
1974
A crack line of varying width provides an interesting selection of jams just right of Jagdhond to share the platform at the top of the flake.

Tiger Pad 10m HVS 5a*
1975
Ascend the series of slabs to the right of Serendipity, use the crack of serendipity to protect the route and look out for the seepage.

Inspiration 10m E1 5b
1975
Climb the crumbly looking section to the right of Tiger Pad. A disgustingly rusty peg marks the spot.

Youtube footage of Rosyth Quarry