Sandyhills Bay

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From a guide originally by Craig Henderson


Sandyhills Bay in Dumfries offers a small selection of mainly easier bouldering problems.

Contents

Directions & Access

Streetmap

The car park at Sandyhills Bay is around the corner from the Cove about 500m. When arriving at the car park follow the headland around to the right until the fishing nets become visible the Cove is just around the corner. During summer months you may be charged a pound for parking. Please take note that the Solway tide is the 8th fastest tide in the UK and it is very easy to get trapped in the Bay.

The Bouldering

This is not extensive and there are some projects which I have not marked on guide, but will be revealed in due time (probably when I realise they're too hard for me and let some else on them).

Sandyhillbay overview.jpg

From left to right the three boxes show The Boulder Field, The Bay and The Cove.

Sandyhillbay boulderlayout.jpg

The Boulder Field

The Courtroom Boulder
Boulder 1
Boulder 2

This is just to the West of the bay holding My Evil Twin and is easily noticeable walking along the beach. There is loads of potential here although the boulders do get smaller.

Court Room Boulder

1. High Tide V2
Sit start on the purpose built terrace, one move to get to the top but a powerful move

2. V4/5
Traverse of the crack and top out, long and over big boulders, mats and spotters needed

3. V?
Sit start and follow the smaller crack to the top

4. V?
Climb the blank middle of the boulder

5. V1/V2
Climb the arete

Boulder 1

1. EasySide V0/1
Climb the right arete

2. SouthSide V4
Climb the overhanging face from the big sloper and low foot hold

2a.SouthSide Sun V4/5
Start as for problem 2 but finish by traversing to the other side of the boulder

3. The OtherSide V4/5
Traverse of the face from low down, requiring 2 dynos to get to the other side

Boulder 2

1. V2
Climb the sloping face from low holds


The Bay

Sandyhillbay mainbay.jpg

1. Mary's Massive Mango's V5
Sit start on under cut and follow crimps and rib to the top pocket

2. My Evil Twin V12
from under the arete follow the roof and up the arete

3. Ejector Seat V3
Sit start and blast up the bulge

4. V3
Climb the over hanging wall on flat holds

5. Twin Flake V1
start on undercut and climb to the shelf using the twin flakes

6. The Crack V4
Climb the overhanging crack

7. Flizz Off V4/5
Climb the slab without the arete

8. SDS Flizz Off V5/6
Sit start in at the crack to the right and traverse into Flizz Off and up

9. Ruff Slab V0
Climb the small slab on edges and undercuts

10. Toothie Ruthie V1
Climb the overhanging wall without the arete

11. Flizz V3
Sit start on flat holds and up on pocket

12. The Bay V4
Traverse from problem 4 to 6

The Cove

Sandyhillbay cove.jpg

1. G V3
The best problem at Sandyhills, climb the blank wall and then through the over lap, finishing on jugs.

1a. Super G V5
After a big tide the floor level drops by over a metre leaving the starting holds out of reach, a run and jump brings them back into reach, the finish up G.

2. Right Wall V0
Climb the wall on crimps.


The Approach Boulder

The Approach Boulder

1. V1
Climb the face direct

2. V1
Sit Start and follow the crack

3. V3
My Dyno - Dyno from the first circle to the red circle

4. V?
Project Dyno - Dyno from the first circle to the yellow circle



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