Scotland's Best Finger and Hand Cracks

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After starting a thread asking for people to suggest Scotland's best finger and hand cracks, I thought it would be good to keep a record of it here. So here are some of the suggested routes, feel free to add any useful information:


FFA D. Cuthbertson - 1980

Style: Pumpy overhanging crack (Fr 7a+)
As you walk round the path to "The Rock" and it's assorted boulders, you cannot fail to be impressed by the overhanging headwall of quite possibly the two finest cracks in Scotland. Leaving aside the mighty Requiem, Chemin de Fer assaults the left edge of the headwall with three distinctly hard sections: it is not to be taken lightly. The crack itself, is succumbed only after a devious sequence is worked out and then there is the infamous traverse that your forearms will hate you for... Indeed, it has scalped many a prospective onsight including MacLeod's and myself, so be warned...
If you liked this, why not try: 'Morbidezza', E5 6a, Upper Cave Crag, Dunkeld. (Scotland's first E5, also a pumpy overhanging crack but in a completely different setting).
- Niall McNair

Style: Dumby's big fat crack.
Style: Very large friend needed.
Style: Sting in the tail
Style: Technical and athletic but only really a short section of finger-crack! (Fr 6c)
Style: Lower jamming crux gives way to massive roof crack!
Style: Techy finger crack (Fr 7a+)
Style: Pumpy hand crack through roof crack (Fr 7a)


Style: Desperate boulder problem
  • Pump Up The Jam, Font 7a, Skye
Style: Bouldering roof crack

By Alasdair Fulton - 17/09/09 and Mark McGowan - 01/04/2010

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