Scotlands Second E9

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Dave Redpath - 25/10/2002

After one of his best seasons to date Dave MacLeod has finished it of with another big number for Scotland. The Fugue E9 6c/7a takes the 40 degree barrel shaped wall in the centre of Upper Crag at Glen Croe. Dave first tried the line last year in which it took him five days to link together. The climbing equates to Fr 8a+, Dave comments Its probably harder than Spiral Tribe or Cease Fire 8a+ at Glen Ogle, the crux is a similar grade to Shield Font 7b+ at Dumbarton Rock.

Those familiar with Dave siege on his last E9 Achemine will no doubt remember the air time clocked up before the successful redpoint. In contrast The Fugue is of serious nature despite its ten poor pieces (RPs and Cams) behind a loose flaky jug it still translates to a nasty fall which Dave seems to have appreciated enough not to try

Having visited the crag 15-20 times this year Dave managed to top rope the route cleanly first go on his last 6 visits but always (bar one) fell of next go. The name comes from the constant underlying theme since I first tried it. I kept coming back, (i.e. was constrained by) the presence of the route in my mind, just like a Fugue by its underlying melody. It is the hardest route in the country due to the danger. It felt easier to lead than Achemine, but only because I didnt fall off this one!!! (Dave McLeod)

At Dumbarton Dave has quickly dispensed with another project traverse out of the Gorilla cave. King Kong, 8A, climbs the whole arte from sit start into SilverBack 7C, to finish along the 'Gorilla Warfare' lip traverse. Dave took four days to do the line dispatching it first go on the fourth day. The linkup is of very sustained nature for its 21 moves with no big holds and constant 50 degree angle. It seems Dave had to bring out the beast to complete the handrail though after the 7a crux for the lip side pull.

Im sure well see more of Daves alter ego as hes already got that glint in his eye over next years projects

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