Scots performing well abroad

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Dave Redpath - 26/05/2005

As a round up of what's been happened over the winter/spring seasons I've found some time to note some of the hard ascents our guys have been making abroad.

Scott Muir has continued his good form from last year to make a number of significant first ascents and repeats in Italy. At Mission Cave in Valsavaranche, Valle D-Aosta he established Tsunami M12 which takes a counter line to the reputable Mission Impossible M11 across some scary, loose flakes. Meanwhile, at Valleile, Cogne he established another new multipitch line alongside Stevie Haston's Empire Strikes Back M10+/11. After repeating Empire last year Scott's imagination was taken with a more direct line. After an epic equipping session the line of Jedi Master M11+ was established which Scott finally climbed in one push with minor incident on the last pitch when an axe broke.

On the repeat front, visiting Val de Landro, Scott onsighted Kurt Ansters Silent Memories M9-, made a quick repeat of Astner Hainz M11 (mistaking it for Big Ben!).

Accounts of these routes can be found in the articles section of the site.

Just before a trip to Germany's Frankenjura, Dave Macleod managed to squeeze in the first ascent of Perfect Crime Font 8b at Dumbie. It's no surprise that great things were expected from this trip, not just cheep nights out in Prague! Dave didn't disappoint with a 4 day ascent of the aptly named Armstrong at Waldkopf cliff (same place as Action Direct). He also made quick ascents of Jerry Moffat's Bastard 8a+, Spiderman 8a+, Desperate Fool 8a+, Donnergurgler 8a and Ill Communication Font 7c as well as flash ascents of Pretty Girls 7c+ and Volgern Verboten 7c+.

Meanwhile Niall McNair seems to have recovered form after retiring from the British Team and the competition circuit this past winter. On a 2 week trip to Gorges Du Tarn he racked up an impressive tally of ascents including: 5 8a onsights of Les Ailes du Desire, Planete Groove, Nouvelles Plantations du Christ, Banda Del Rulos and Moules Frites which covered a variety of styles from long and sustained to super steep. In the 7b+-7c+ grade he onsighted a further 17 routes to complete his first week's climbing. Sadly, this man on fire took ill of heat exhaustion and things got tough when he was denied on many more 8a onsights in week two. The traumas of being Scottish...

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