Scottish F8c

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Wednesday October 27th 2004. After a long wait, Scottish sport climbing standards have finally taken another small step forward with the completion of another project by Dave MacLeod.

'Devastation Generation' F8c was completed by Dave over three years of work, which have been focused over the winter seasons of 2003-2004. The Dumbuck line was first equipped and attempted by Dave Redpath back in 1996, but attempts over a six-year period gave no success.

The route is another Scottish power classic. The Font 7c section above the scoop proper involves a sequence using a small pocket to reach a slot. The crux pocket, which is very heat dependent repelled efforts past the month of May. Redpath's frustrated comments on conditions led Gary Latter to reply "You should just chalk up". Sadly this isn't so easy in the middle of a Font 7c and there's still the rope to clip in!

Even after a move to Dumbarton in 2002 Macleod still found the same problems on the route. Finally after a few visits in Autumn 2004, the project finally succumbed to pure power, dry weather and the usual dose of luck.

The route has been named as a tribute to Redpath's father who died in 1996. As testimony to a self destructing generation, R.I.P


Reported by Dave Redpath on 27-10-2004

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