Scottish Sport Climbing Top Ten

Dave Redpath - 13/12/2001

This article is a bit out of date now. You might want to look at the hardest Scottish sport routes page.

1. Steall Appeal 8b
   Malcom Smith 1993
   Scotland's hardest climbed by our best in just one day. Unrepeated at present and seems to building a reputation of being harder than the grade suggests.
   Beta: Big juggie flake at start leads to the 7a crux revolving around a poor pinch. Ramp system leads to another crux from a flat undercut to the glorious finish - see OTE 100 front cover. Nice setting too shame about the...!
2. Merchant of Menace 8b
   Stuart Cameron 1992
   Hard man of the time, Stuart Cameron, dusted off his local project before unleashing himself on the rest of the UK. Somewhat neglected as its first 5m is wet most of the year. Recent scandals haven't helped its reputation any, though its worth noting Stu gave it 8b+ and it hasn't seen a repeat yet.
   Beta: A couple of big reaches lead to the pod system, slopey presses lead to a crimper (debatable), off which you power to a poor sidepull and then upwards. Hope you like quarries!
3. Voodoo Magic 8b
   Andy Gallagher 1997/Dave Macleod 2000
   First climbed in 1997 its grade of 8B was perhaps an overshoot but no one was arguing with Andy. Subsequent ascents followed until part of the ledge and mid height jug came off, the first 4m being significantly harder. Come 2000 Dave Mcleod took up the gauntlet and won at a grade of proper 8b.
   Beta: Since the ledge went the starts now brick! Get orientated then make some very steep moves off slopes, hooking toes where ever they fit best to reach the glued crimp. Once you leave this move up to the micro edge then decide on your finish, move right then up and back left (original way), or move more directly. Hopefully it'll lose more holds, then we'll have an 8b+ and another first ascent.
4. Digital Quartz 8b
   Ian Pitcairn 1994
   Ian's route was again a lost promise from the Scottish up and coming - the numbers are there but the half way ledge leave it dismissed by many.
   #Beta: Basically an 8a+/b to ledge then a 7b+ on top which is blow-able. Big move to reach quartz shield then the holds get really small and very condition dependent. Hopefully you should reach the ledge.Take some tea and scones, because the ledge takes the piss!
5. So Be It 8a+/b
   Dave Macleod 2000
   A long standing project from Andy, it was obvious that leaving all those hangers in was asking for trouble. Trouble came in the form of Dave who dispatched it quickly in 2000. Not to be confused with the warm-ups!
   Beta: Nice sequence to the half way jug, moving up and right provides you a crux somewhere along the way. Some crafty foot work might help you, then again it might not. Pad out that tree else it will rip you a new...
6. The Niche 8a+
   Stuart Cameron 1992
   Balmashanners other hard route from Stuart, this time with a ball breaking crux that stops many. Has seen quite a few ascents over the past few years.
   Beta: Start up the small overlap then make a reach for the poor crimp, now pull it miles with nowt much for the feet. Nothing as hard there after, but it still takes it out you.
7. Cease Fire 8a+
   Dave Macleod 2001
   Long standing project of Duncan's, many have toyed with it but no one owned up to an ascent. Full set of hangers presented an open invitation for Dave.
   Beta: Steep start with powerful locks take you to the break and so to a rest jug. Moving to the headwall presents some slopey finger crimps that are very condition dependent and on to a poor rest before the pokey crux on 2 finger pockets. Duncan might still claim it's his project?
8. Spiral Tribe 8a+
   Duncan McCallum 1993
   Counter line to Beaten Track, doesn't get as many ascents though. Some argue its 8a, but they've still to do it! That last move is tricky.
   Beta: Pull out of the mid height cave into a tricky sequence which might get you passed the big sidepull. From here continue to a resting flake before the final crux which is very technical and powerful. Hands off rest in cave is possible - take some head gear?
9. Dumb Dumb Boys 8a/+
   Andy Gallagher 1994
   The right face of Dumbarton has three sport routes just as steep as the main face of which this is the longest. Given 8b when first done as many easier ways have been found over the years. Depending on how fit you are its probably still 8a+.
   Beta: Once leaving the main corner its not long till you find the crux, once done continue with speed on spaced crimps to the top. No Dave, I don't believe you when you said you felt fresher towards the top, its well long.
10. Off The beaten Track 8a
    Paul Thorburn 1993
    Stork's '93 offering that opened up the Diamond to sport climbing. Some consider it to be harder than Spiral Tribe, but its all in the size of your fingers. Excellent route, best of its grade up this way.
    Beta: Once pulled onto the face from the wet starting ramps positive holds lead to a triangular jug before the crux. Take the crux pocket with two fingers if you can else use it as a mono (well harder), this should deposit you at the hand traverse, which leads to a poor rest before the final hard pull for the ramp.