Sport route re-equipping

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If you have been out sport climbing in Scotland and found a route in a dangerous state please add it below with information on the route, crag, date and issue.

Issues might be:

  • Lower-off chain or carabiners in bad state
  • Bolt very rusty looking or flakey
  • Bolt positioned in loose rock

Eventually we'd like to set up a Scottish Bolt Fund in conjunction with the MCoS. Someone needs to approach them on this!

It would be idea that new routes and re-equipped routes follow Scottish bolting policy.


Routes Requiring Full Re-Equipping

  • If Size was Nine/Parallel, Dumbuck, 22/04/2010, Bolts need replaced and chains checked.
  • Casanostra, Dumbarton 22/04/2010, next to sea and a decade old.
  • Dunira or Die, Dun Moan'in, Tullybannocher Tea Room, Strathearn Shangrila All Dunira, 20/04/2010, All needing re-bolted, chopped recently.

Routes Requiring Partial Re-Equipping

  • So Be It, Dumbuck, 22/04/10, HOLES DRILLED!!! Chain needs replacing, bolts checked, likewise on Twister to right.
  • Ultima Necat, Dunkeld, Upper Cave, 06/05/10, two bolts required to reduce unnecessary run outs. (--Mark McGowan 17:17, 7 May 2010 (BST))
  • The Third Eye, Tunnel walls, 2 bolts required to reduce run outs.--Mark McGowan 21:00, 24 May 2010 (BST)

Routes Requiring Tidying Up

  • Payback Time, Dumbarton, 10/04/2010, bolts are horrible! about e6 at the moment?
  • Omerta, Dumbarton, 10/04/2010, old stubs to remove.
  • Dumb Dumb Boys, Dumbarton, 10/04/2010, old stubs to remove, check bolt 4 (in too far and hanger has fallen off!).
  • Voodoo Magic, Dumbuck, 10/04/2010, old stubs to cut out.
  • Awaken, Dumbuck, 10/04/2010, old stubs to cut out.
  • Gentle Mass, Dumbuck, 10/04/2010, old bolts to remove.
  • Second Sights, Dumbuck, 10/04/2010, old bolts to remove.
  • Ceasefire, Glen Ogle, 01/06/2006, resins added, but old bolts still need cut out.

Routes/Areas To Keep an Eye On

  • Glen Ogle - Most of Darkside is in a bad state now, beware!!! - NEEDS ASSESMENT
  • Argyll - Miracle Wall/Tignabruigh/Anvil - NEEDS ASSESMENT
  • Dundee Quaries and North East - NEEDS ASSESMENT
  • North West - Mainly good stainless resin bolts - should be great.

Acknowledgments To Re-Equippers

The following people have contributed significantly thus far to maintaining existing sport routes in Scotland both physically and financially.

In Alphabetical order (I had to pick one)

  • Rab Anderson - Tunnel Wall (plus cubby?)
  • Dave Macleod - Dumbie.
  • Dave Redpath - Dumbie/Dumbuck/Ogle/U Cave.
  • Neil Shepherd - Dundee Area (Legaston,Balashanner,Ley), Upper Cave.
  • Paul Tat and Gruinard crew - mostly for doing a stellar job at getting the job right in first place!
  • John Watson - Dunglass

PS. Please add you name if I've missed you out --DaveR 00:22, 27 April 2010 (BST) 2010.

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