Sport route re-equipping
From ScottishClimbs
If you have been out sport climbing in Scotland and found a route in a dangerous state please add it below with information on the route, crag, date and issue.
Issues might be:
- Lower-off chain or carabiners in bad state
- Bolt very rusty looking or flakey
- Bolt positioned in loose rock
Eventually we'd like to set up a Scottish Bolt Fund in conjunction with the MCoS. Someone needs to approach them on this!
It would be idea that new routes and re-equipped routes follow Scottish bolting policy.
Contents |
Routes Requiring Full Re-Equipping
- If Size was Nine/Parallel, Dumbuck, 22/04/2010, Bolts need replaced and chains checked.
- Casanostra, Dumbarton 22/04/2010, next to sea and a decade old.
- Dunira or Die, Dun Moan'in, Tullybannocher Tea Room, Strathearn Shangrila All Dunira, 20/04/2010, All needing re-bolted, chopped recently.
Routes Requiring Partial Re-Equipping
- So Be It, Dumbuck, 22/04/10, HOLES DRILLED!!! Chain needs replacing, bolts checked, likewise on Twister to right.
- Ultima Necat, Dunkeld, Upper Cave, 06/05/10, two bolts required to reduce unnecessary run outs. (--Mark McGowan 17:17, 7 May 2010 (BST))
- The Third Eye, Tunnel walls, 2 bolts required to reduce run outs.--Mark McGowan 21:00, 24 May 2010 (BST)
Routes Requiring Tidying Up
- Payback Time, Dumbarton, 10/04/2010, bolts are horrible! about e6 at the moment?
- Omerta, Dumbarton, 10/04/2010, old stubs to remove.
- Dumb Dumb Boys, Dumbarton, 10/04/2010, old stubs to remove, check bolt 4 (in too far and hanger has fallen off!).
- Voodoo Magic, Dumbuck, 10/04/2010, old stubs to cut out.
- Awaken, Dumbuck, 10/04/2010, old stubs to cut out.
- Gentle Mass, Dumbuck, 10/04/2010, old bolts to remove.
- Second Sights, Dumbuck, 10/04/2010, old bolts to remove.
- Ceasefire, Glen Ogle, 01/06/2006, resins added, but old bolts still need cut out.
Routes/Areas To Keep an Eye On
- Benny Beg - NEEDS ASSESMENT
- Glen Ogle - Most of Darkside is in a bad state now, beware!!! - NEEDS ASSESMENT
- Weem - NEEDS ASSESMENT
- Argyll - Miracle Wall/Tignabruigh/Anvil - NEEDS ASSESMENT
- Dundee Quaries and North East - NEEDS ASSESMENT
- North West - Mainly good stainless resin bolts - should be great.
Acknowledgments To Re-Equippers
The following people have contributed significantly thus far to maintaining existing sport routes in Scotland both physically and financially.
In Alphabetical order (I had to pick one)
- Rab Anderson - Tunnel Wall (plus cubby?)
- Dave Macleod - Dumbie.
- Dave Redpath - Dumbie/Dumbuck/Ogle/U Cave.
- Neil Shepherd - Dundee Area (Legaston,Balashanner,Ley), Upper Cave.
- Paul Tat and Gruinard crew - mostly for doing a stellar job at getting the job right in first place!
- John Watson - Dunglass
PS. Please add you name if I've missed you out --DaveR 00:22, 27 April 2010 (BST) 2010.